Composition of face cream: what a good cream should be, breakdown of components

Cream is an integral part of any woman’s daily care routine. Nowadays there is such a huge number of creams on the cosmetic market that it can be quite difficult to understand their diversity.

Not all remedies are equally effective, and some of them can even be harmful. And of course, to understand how the cream will work, first of all, you need to pay attention to its composition.

The history of face creams

According to historians, the cream first appeared in Ancient Egypt, as its samples were found during excavations. Herbal decoctions and infusions, as well as other additives, were added to healing mixtures. For example, Ptahhotep and Imhotep were the first to enrich cosmetics with aromatic oils - such creams were made for priests and pharaohs. Ancient Egyptian healers knew well the properties of various plants and the properties of human skin - this allowed them not only to create unique compositions for preserving the bodies of deceased people, but also to create recipes for preserving the freshness and youth of the skin of representatives of the highest caste of the state. Interestingly, ostrich eggs with milk were used to nourish the skin, crocodile droppings were used to moisturize, and the addition of white clay helped eliminate oily shine.

It is believed that the first products for the care of aging and fading skin were invented by Hippocrates, who lived in Ancient Greece, and created unique formulas. And one of his students, Diocles, made mixtures to eliminate age spots, lighten and moisturize the skin. It was in Ancient Greece that the first scrubs and peelings were invented, since the Greeks often washed their faces with fine sand, performing additional, mechanical cleansing of the skin.

One of the ancient treatises even provides step-by-step processes for facial skin care for women:

1. The skin takes on a special color and freshness if a woman gets enough sleep.

2. Immediately after waking up, you should apply a healing mixture of egg yolks, honey, chopped gladiolus bulbs, as well as barley and wheat flour to your facial skin. The product miraculously whitens the skin.

Oils are becoming the main component of moisturizing and nourishing creams. In Mediterranean countries, olive oil is used. This was due to the fact that residents of this region had to protect their skin from the influence of bright sunlight and sea breezes. On the islands of Oceania, palm, castor and coconut oil were considered the main components. Less commonly, the formula was enriched with butter and mahogany wood flour. In Africa, raffia oil was used to make creams.

And the ancient Roman healer Marcus Aurelius compiled a formula based on spermaceti, beeswax, almond oil and rose water. This composition was considered one of the most effective for a long time, as it allowed to moisturize and nourish the skin. However, over time it turned out that the wax is too heavy for the skin and closes the pores, preventing the skin from breathing fully.

In Ancient Rus', people often went to the bathhouse to cleanse their skin. At the same time, it was customary to treat the skin with infusions of herbs, rye bread and honey. Cosmetics were prepared based on dairy products (milk, sour cream, cottage cheese), egg yolks, honey, and vegetables (carrots, beets, cabbage and cucumber).

In the Middle Ages, there was a slight decline in demand for cosmetics. This was due to the Inquisition’s ban on the use of decorative and caring cosmetics. However, in the East, it was at this time that the famous doctor Abu al-Qasim al-Zahrawi created a whole series of unique creams for aging skin, and also came up with products that became prototypes of modern decorative cosmetics and antiperspirants.

During the Renaissance, cosmetics for facial skin care began to be used again. Creams with a toxic composition (usually based on lead and acetic acid), which allowed the skin to acquire extraordinary, aristocratic whiteness, were in particular demand.

In the 19th century, the basis of cosmetics were fragrant, perfumed substances, and folk recipes gradually lost popularity.

In the middle of the last century, scientists finally realized that the main cause of aging is the lack of collagen that occurs with age. Anti-aging creams began to include fish collagen, but over time it turned out that the formula was quite weak and could only cope with small wrinkles.

In the 80s of the last century, creams with liposomes were discovered, which are also widely used to this day.

At the end of the 20th century, antioxidants began to be added to creams (vitamin C is one of the most popular), which effectively fight free radicals, the main factor in skin aging.

Classification and types of face creams

Facial care cosmetics are divided according to composition and purpose. The composition of the cream is divided as follows:

— fatty

– made on the basis of stearin, lanolin or petroleum jelly; To enrich the formula, vegetable oils, hormones, vitamins, as well as essential oils and aromatic substances are added;

— emulsion

– presented in the form of mixtures of oil and water; it can be a water-oil type, where individual water particles are emulsified into the oil, or an oil-water type, where the oil is dispersed in water.

According to the purpose of the cream, they are divided as follows.

Cleansing

– allow you to cleanse the skin of dirt, dust, and makeup particles. Most often presented in the form of milk or gel for washing, which is foamed and applied to the skin for a couple of minutes, after which it is washed off.

Moisturizing

– day (less often evening) creams made on a fat basis with the addition of hydroactive substances (help retain moisture in the top layer), enzymes and vitamins. Such creams are applied in the warm season. In extreme heat or cold, these products can only cause harm and should be avoided.

Nutritious

- mainly creams that are applied before bed, since they provide nutrition to the lower layers of the epidermis and do their job best during rest. Formulated on the basis of lanolin, petroleum jelly, stearin, vegetable oils and cocoa butter. Also include vitamins and other active ingredients. The product is applied for 1 hour and after a while the excess is removed using a paper napkin.

Matting

– used for oily skin; when applied, they form an imperceptible matte layer on the surface of the epidermis that protects the skin and eliminates oily sheen.

Protective

– most often provide protection from frost and are special creams of a rather thick texture. Can be applied alone or under makeup.

Anti-aging

– may include hyaluronic acid, vitamin C, retinol and other components that slow down the aging process of the skin, improve its nutrition and reduce the increase and deepening of wrinkles. Such products often include liposomes that contain beneficial active ingredients and, due to their small size, penetrate deep into the skin layer, nourishing and saturating it from the inside.

Tonal

– consist mainly of powder and makeup, as well as dyes. Allows you to create an even skin tone, protects against dehydration and nourishes.

Medicinal

– often produced for teenage skin, which, due to hormonal changes, becomes covered with acne and pimples. The composition includes extracts of medicinal herbs, tea tree oil and other components that dry out and treat rashes.

Peelings

– creams with AHA acids have become widespread. Active components (fruit acids) dissolve components that bind together and hold keratinized particles on the surface. When applied, a layer of old cells is removed and the skin becomes smoother and more elastic. In addition, the active components are able to stimulate the renewal process of cells located deep in the epidermis. This allows you to lighten age spots, smooth out wrinkles, and improve skin elasticity.

Sun protection

– face cream with spf is a must-have in the arsenal of any woman who seeks to protect her skin from drying out and the aggressive effects of sunlight. The thinner and lighter the skin, the higher the SPF rating on the package should be. For brunettes, it is enough to purchase a face cream with SPF 5-10; for blondes, SPF starts from 12 and up to 36 units.

Self tanning

– is largely a decorative product that allows you to create a tanning effect on the face and body skin. The products also include active moisturizing and nourishing components.

What do the special markers on the packages mean?

On some packaging of cosmetics sold around the world, you can find special markers. They are usually indicated by special drawings or inscriptions. For many women, deciphering them is a big mystery.

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Not tested on animals - this phrase means that the product has not been tested in laboratory tests on animals. Non-comedogenic - after application, the cream will not create a thick, impenetrable film that will feel like a mask.

Dermatologically tested - this inscription means that the product has passed clinical trials and is completely safe. It is approved by dermatologists and can be used by all categories of citizens who do not have allergic reactions to certain components.

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Cream composition

Reading the description of the ingredients that make up the cream, the vast majority of women do not know even half of the ingredients listed. Let's try to figure it out in more detail. The components whose share in the cream is in the lead are listed first.

Panthenol – softens the skin and promotes its regeneration, does not cause allergies, which is why it can be used in cosmetics intended for sensitive skin.

Allantoin – softens the skin, perfectly retains moisture in the epidermis, relieves the skin from flaking, and accelerates the recovery process.

Lecithin is an emulsifier made from yolk or soybean oil; this component is necessary for the proper dissolution of vitamins A, E, K and D.

Tocopheryl Acetate is a vitamin E obtained artificially.

Glycerin – perfectly moisturizes the skin when used in sufficient concentration; if there is too much glycerin in the cream, this component may have the opposite effect. It is believed that creams too rich in glycerin are not recommended for dry and normal skin.

Dimenthicone is a mineral oil that perfectly softens and moisturizes the skin.

Urea is urea, which is widely used in cosmetology and is an excellent moisturizing component.

Caprylic Triglyceride is a natural skin softening ingredient made from coconut oil.

Beeswax – ensures the creation of a thin film on the surface of the skin, which guarantees moisturizing care.

The best anti-wrinkle face creams must contain the following components:

— retinol – actively participates in cell regeneration;

— vitamin C or ascorbic acid – activates the synthesis of collagen fibers and is a powerful antioxidant;

- proxilan - moisturizes the skin, makes the dermis denser, reduces the depth of wrinkles;

— resveratlol – increases skin elasticity, improves the process of hydration and regeneration, reduces the number of wrinkles;

- hydroxy acids, in particular hyaluronic acid - actively exfoliate the upper layers of the skin, promoting constant renewal of the epidermis. An important property of the acid is its ability to convert water into a gel, which allows you to most effectively even out the structure and texture of the skin;

- collagen - moisturizes the skin, but its molecules are large enough to penetrate into the middle, so the substance “works” mainly on the surface;

— elastin – helps maintain skin elasticity at a normal level;

- peptides - slow down the aging process and improve metabolic processes in the skin;

- complexes of vitamins of different groups.

Please note that creams should not contain formaldehydes and their derivatives, for example, formalinum.

How to choose a face cream? Skin care products are chosen based on skin type, type of cream and your own age.

Cooking tool

To prepare the cream, you do not need complex equipment; as a rule, any housewife has everything she needs.

Small metal saucepan (for steam bath)
Syringe or measuring cup
Plastic/glass spatula
Kitchen scales
Mini mixer (you can beat the mass with a regular mixer or fork, but this is less convenient)
Plastic containers for storing mixture
Thermometer

To prevent the cream from spoiling itself and ruining your mood, make sure that your utensils and tools are sterile!

Choosing a cream by skin type

Normal skin is extremely rare in reality; This is exactly the case when the skin looks perfect and does not cause any trouble to the owner.

Oily skin – characterized by enlarged pores, a grayish tint and a tendency to inflammatory processes; This type of skin is denser and less susceptible to aging, but constantly appearing pimples and blackheads cause a lot of trouble.

Dry skin – thin, smooth, no shine, pores are practically invisible; This type needs high-quality nutrition and hydration, since there is a tendency to the appearance of early wrinkles, as well as peeling in cold weather.

Combination skin is an option when an oily sheen appears on the forehead, nose and chin area, and there is flaking on the cheeks.

Manufacturers have taken care of creating entire series for owners of different skin types. Thus, creams for dry skin saturate and moisturize its upper layers, while products for oily skin are designed to provide the necessary nutrition and tighten pores. For those with combination skin, cosmetics help get rid of their inherent problems.

How to choose?

When purchasing a facial product, you need to consider the following features:

Age. Cosmetic companies produce products that are conventionally divided into categories: “adolescence”, “18+”, “25+”, “40+”, “50+”.
Skin type. It happens: normal, oily, dry, combination.
Purpose. Choose daytime, nighttime, for the skin around the eyes.

Important! In addition to natural ingredients, the composition may contain preservatives. They are not harmful, but only extend the shelf life of the cream.

Choosing a cream depending on age

Face cream after 30 years

By the age of 30, a woman’s body begins to produce less hyaluronic acid, which delivers moisture to the cells of the epidermis, and the production of collagen, the main component responsible for skin elasticity, also decreases.

Having crossed the 30-year mark, women need to use face cream with hyaluronic acid, as well as products containing vitamin C. These substances penetrate deep into the epidermis, moisturizing the skin and helping to restore the natural activity of cells and normalize metabolic processes. Products (day creams) must also provide protection from sun rays, as evidenced by the presence of an SPF protective factor of a certain value. At this age, you should also add peelings with fruit acids, which help activate metabolic processes in the skin.

If the face is swollen, you should use creams with angioprotective action containing extracts of arnica and ginkgo biloba.

For washing, it is better to use thermal water saturated with selenium and zinc. The cream is applied to the skin twice a day: in the morning, after washing and in the evening a couple of hours before bedtime. The eyelid skin also needs nourishment 2 times a day. Be sure to add moisturizing masks to your care, which are used twice a week in the morning. Occasionally you should use lifting serums, which will help quickly give your face a fresh, rested look. But this should only be done before important events, when you need to look special.

DIY face cream

1. Melt 3 g of lanolin and 1 g of wax in a water bath, add 1 teaspoon each of peach seed oil and purified water. The composition is mixed and applied to cleansed skin. The product is prepared immediately before use and is used for dry skin.

2. Beat 3 tablespoons of flaxseed oil in a blender with 2 yolks, carefully stir in 200 g of sour cream and 50 g of lemon juice. Keep refrigerated. Can be used for oily skin, also applied to the area around the eyes.

If we talk about ready-made creams, consumers often choose creams such as “Estee Lauder Hydrationost”, “La Roche Posay Hydra phase”, “Youth Surge Clinique”, “Vichy Aqualia Thermal”, “Avene Eluage”, “Lumene Arctic Aqua”, “Belita Vitex whitening”, “Nivea Q10 plus”, “Health&Beauty”, “Chanel Sublimage”, “Natria NSP”, “Kora”.

Face cream after 40 years

After 40 years, a woman’s body experiences a number of natural changes that can be corrected through proper care, an active lifestyle and nutrition. Particular attention should be paid to choosing the right, effective cosmetics that actively restore the epidermis.

At this age, there is a thickening of collagen fibers (some of them stick together or disintegrate), the function of the sebaceous glands decreases, due to which the skin becomes dry, the thickness of the epidermis decreases, which causes the appearance of wrinkles, hormonal levels change, spider veins and persistent redness may appear.

At this age, you should use cosmetics richer in active ingredients, and also pay attention to creams and serums with the Botox effect, which allow you to weaken the excessive tone of the facial muscles for a certain time. Apply such products to the forehead and bridge of the nose, as well as to the nasolabial folds. The active component is hexapeptide-3 (adenoxine, argireline), which more naturally blocks neuromuscular contractions and also activates the production of elastin and collagen in the skin.

Another significant problem is the gradual “sliding” of the oval down. In this case, you must definitely use products with vitamins A and C, creams with liposomes and ginkgo biloba extract.

How to make cream at home?

1. Melt 50 g of beeswax in a water bath, add 100 g of olive oil and 50 g of coconut oil, mix gently and cool. Pour the mixture into a blender, add tocopherol solution (1 ampoule), 5 drops of orange essential oil and mix until smooth. The product smoothes out wrinkles well.

2. Melt 20 g of beeswax in a water bath, add 20 ml each of olive oil and shea butter. Add 15 ml of rose water and aloe juice, as well as 5 g of lecithin, to the cooled mixture. Whisk the mixture and use to moisturize your facial skin.

Among the ready-made series, you should pay attention to the products “Vichy Liftactiv Retinol HA”, “L`Oreal Derma Genesis”, “Plasan”, “Black Pearl after 46 years”, “Olay Regenerist”, “Neutrogena Healthy Skin Anti-Wrinkle”, “ Clarins Multi-regenerante Jour.

Face cream after 50 years

Skin care is mandatory at any age, and the older a woman gets, the more attention she should pay to choosing the right cosmetics. After 50 years, hormonal changes occur in a woman’s body, as a result of which the amount of estrogen decreases, which directly affects the reduction in collagen production. In addition, the body's protective functions are reduced and the skin is more easily exposed to the negative effects of external factors.

Creams for women who have crossed the 50-year mark contain AHA acids, vitamins E and A, collagen, hyaluronic acid, coenzyme Q10, adenozyme, glycerin, lanolin, peptides, ceramides, dimethicone and other components. All of them, once in contact with the skin, provide proper care and guarantee a reduction in the visual signs of aging.

As an option, we can suggest using cellular preparations - creams made on the basis of embryonic tissue. It is believed that the components inside saturate the skin with active substances and transport information about how it needs to function correctly.

Homemade face cream

1. Melt 100 g of butter in a water bath and mix with 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add 200 g of honey and 50 ml of freshly squeezed aloe juice. The mixture is cooled to room temperature and whipped until smooth. After this, add 1 teaspoon of lemon juice, as well as 1 ampoule of retinol. The composition is stored in the refrigerator.

2. In a blender, beat 100 ml of cream with egg yolk, 1 tablespoon each of honey and lemon juice, add 1 teaspoon of cognac. The mixture is stored in the refrigerator.

Among the ready-made creams, consumers are advised to pay attention to the following: “Vichy Lift Activ”, “Kanebo Sensai”, “Nivea Sun”, “Shiseido Benefiance”, “Chanel Complete Correction”, “Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm”, “Mizon Marine Collagen” ", "Cora. Cream lifting", "Biocon. Cream lifting" and others.

Kurds

Kurds are a special type of custard, in which the entire emphasis is on fruit or berry filling.
You are probably familiar with the most famous of them – lemon curd. This is a very aromatic cream with a bright lemon taste. Kurds are suitable for soaking sponge cakes, as a filling for cupcakes and muffins, tarts and tartlets, as a sauce for pancakes and pancakes. Such creams are quite liquid and cannot be shaped. The maximum thickness that can be achieved without compromising the taste is the state of thick sour cream. Kurd should be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator. Under such conditions, he can easily survive for a week until needed.

I will give two versions of Kurds: lemon and strawberry. These two recipes are suitable for any fruits and berries.

Lemon curd

Very tasty, bright and aromatic cream. I love using it for cakes and tartlets. It goes well with creamy, protein and curd creams, ganaches and is simply good as an independent element.

Ingredients:

Eggs – 4 pcs.
Lemon – 4 pcs.
Butter – 50 g
Sugar or cane sugar – 70-80 g
Corn starch – 2-3 tbsp. (if you need a thicker cream)

Step-by-step instruction:

Grate the zest of two lemons. Mix with sugar.
Squeeze the juice from all 4 lemons, strain from the seeds and pulp.
Pour the juice into the sugar and zest and mix everything
Lightly beat the eggs.
Add the eggs to the lemon-sugar mixture and mix well. At this stage, add cornstarch if you want a thicker cream.
Pour the mixture into a saucepan, add oil and place over medium heat. Cook, stirring continuously, until the cream thickens and bubbles appear.
Remove from heat and quickly pass through a sieve to extract the zest (it has done its job)
Pour the finished curd into a container or jars, cover the surface with cling film and let cool slightly. Then put it in the refrigerator overnight.

Types of creams (day or night)

Day cream is applied in the morning after cleansing and toning the skin. The texture of this product is lighter, since it is important that the composition is absorbed as quickly as possible. Day creams often act as a base for makeup, creating an even and smooth skin surface.

Night cream is applied before bedtime. First, you need to carefully remove your makeup, apply cleansing milk and toner. Only after this, night cream is applied, the texture of which is tighter and oilier. It is imperative to apply a nourishing night cream before bed, because during rest the skin is actively restored and the active components are absorbed much more efficiently.

Men's face cream

Men's skin is significantly different from women's. In representatives of the stronger sex, the skin retains moisture well and remains firm and elastic longer, which is explained by the sufficient production of collagen and elastane. At the same time, men's skin becomes oily much faster, which causes inflammatory processes, in particular, pimples and acne.

The composition of men's creams includes plant extracts, oils, glycerin, vitamins, hyaluronic acid, and sunscreen components.

Among the most popular men's creams are “Nivea for men”, “L`Oreal Men Expert Hydra Energetic”, “Vichy Homme Hydra Mag C+”, “Christian Dior Homme” and others.

Tags: skin care

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