What is a Jessner peel? What are its advantages? Can it be done at home?

Jessner peeling (Hollywood peeling) is a procedure that allows you to intensively exfoliate dead skin to stimulate its renewal and eliminate some defects. It should only be carried out under the close supervision of a specialist. Due to the influence of active substances, a pronounced rejuvenating effect is observed, which can subsequently be maintained without much effort.

Features of the technique

This procedure is the most popular option for chemical peeling. It is designed for a wide spectrum of action, so it solves problems such as acne in adolescence, age spots, scars after rashes, age-related changes and oily seborrhea. A Jessner peel can be superficial or medium depending on the number of layers of product applied to the skin. As a rule, it contains three main components:

• Lactic acid. Provides a whitening and exfoliating effect, stimulates the synthesis of natural collagen, maintains the correct moisture balance in the epidermis.
• Salicylic acid. Performs the function of an anti-inflammatory substance, antiseptic and keratolytic. Under its influence, other peeling components penetrate the dermis more easily. It reduces itching and enhances regeneration, which ensures smoothing of the relief and elimination of surface defects.
• Resorcinol. Disinfects the skin, protects it from burns and scarring even when applying a large amount of the product. Helps fight acne, seborrhea and other skin diseases.

Sometimes additional components are added to the composition, for example, retinol, which enhances exfoliation. Jessner peels are not recommended for local use as the treated and untreated areas will contrast in color and texture of the epidermis. It is applied to the entire face (sometimes even to the eyelids), and is also used to rejuvenate other problem areas: hands, neck, décolleté.

Have you decided to undergo a chemical facial peel? - be sure to read!

Oh, this peeling - there are so many conflicting reviews on the Internet: for some it is salvation, for others it is several days of discomfort, and still others consider this facial care procedure to be useless.

Let's try to figure it out.

Chemical peels are one of the popular facial care procedures provided by institutions with a valid license to provide medical services (why with a license - just below). They are effective and relevant both at a young age in the treatment of acne and oily skin, and at a mature age - to combat dry facial skin, pigmentation, wrinkles, and as anti-aging preventive procedures.

We have already discussed the differences between peelings and recommendations for use in our other articles, but let's repeat:

As you know, skin cells originate in the basal layer of the epidermis, and gradually rise to the stratum corneum, after which they die and peel off. In this process, skin peeling acts as a tool for removing dead cells.

There are several types of chemical peeling:

Superficial - impact on the surface of the epidermis, at the level of the stratum corneum. Usually used for still young, young skin as a cleanser or solution to specific aesthetic problems, often these are peelings with alpha hydroxy acids (AHA, pyruvic, salicylic and fruit acids)

Medium - exposure in the middle of the epidermis, where layers of living cells are already affected. This type of peeling usually causes severe peeling, redness and requires a recovery period. It is used to solve specific problems and combat age-related changes in the skin, as well as post-acne, pigmentation, expression wrinkles, small stretch marks, scars - peelings with TCA (trichloroacetic acid), 30% salicylic acid are used, including and Jessner peel.

Deep - affects all layers of living cells, down to the basal layer, partially damaging the basement membrane. It is considered an operation and is comparable to a 3rd degree burn. The rehabilitation period can last up to six months, but the effect will last up to several years. It is used for radical correction of age-related changes: removal of deep wrinkles, scars - this is, for example, phenol peeling, peeling with trichloroacetic acid in high concentration.

Chemical peeling is essentially a controlled chemical burn of the face using a gel, cream or solution based on acids, which, depending on the type, concentration and time of exposure, improve the condition of the skin:

• The bridges between cells (desmosomes) are dissolved. As a result, dead cells are exfoliated, and the epidermal barrier is not broken.
• Stimulate cellular restoration - when the upper stratum corneum is destroyed, the cells of the lower basal layer begin to actively divide.
• Stimulate fibroblasts and promote the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin.
• Under the influence of acids, the stratum corneum decreases and the thickness and density of the dermis increases - the skin becomes firmer and more elastic, wrinkles are smoothed out.
• They attract water and deliver it to the epidermis, moisturizing the skin, cleanse pores and normalize the activity of the sebaceous glands, thereby reducing oily skin and preventing the appearance of acne.
• They provide an antioxidant effect and reduce the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme, which in turn suppresses melanin synthesis and leads to skin lightening.

It is precisely because of these properties of the effect of acids on the skin that there are many indications for the use of chemical peeling. Chemical peeling helps solve a very wide range of cosmetic problems:

• Hyperpigmentation.
• Wrinkles.
• Dehydration.
• Dryness.
• Hyperkeratosis.
• Seborrhea.
• Acne.
• Post-acne.
• Rosacea.
• Scarring.
• Stretch marks.
• Prevention of aging.

But at the same time, there are contraindications, even for the mildest and most superficial peeling:

• Violation of the integrity of the skin (injuries - wounds, scratches, cuts, etc.).
• Invasive procedures performed less than 2 months ago (deep cleaning, mesotherapy, laser resurfacing).
• Active inflammatory process.
• Pronounced rosacea.
• Pregnancy, lactation.
• Fever, cold.
• Any chronic and acute skin diseases, infectious skin diseases.
• Herpes in the active phase.
• Asthma.
• Hypertension.
• Oncology.
• Taking medications that increase sensitivity to the sun, immunosuppressants.
• Prolonged exposure to the sun and a fresh tan.
• Hormonal disorders
• Individual allergic reactions caused by intolerance to components and compounds in cosmetic products.

!!! To avoid discomfort and complications both during the peeling procedure and after, be sure to follow all the instructions of a cosmetologist, and do not ignore pre-peel preparation and post-peel skin care.

As we said earlier, chemical peeling is an operative procedure. Unfortunately, even the most highly qualified specialist - cosmetologist, when performing chemical peeling, cannot guarantee and foresee all the consequences of the effects of the drugs used, largely due to your individual characteristics and the state of the body at the time of the procedure.

The result of peeling (including the rehabilitation period), like the result and consequences of many other skincare procedures, is individual , which is why we can so often come across completely different (both positive and negative) reviews about this procedure. Of course, our Center also faces such situations. For example, when providing superficial peeling services using a drug that is quite popular today, and very loved by our cosmetologists because of its high efficiency and short rehabilitation period, like PRX-T®33, a frequent Client of our Center was faced with exactly this situation - a complete recovery period lasted up to three weeks. Of course, we regret this situation, but, as the manufacturer states, PRX-T®33 is a comprehensive program of professional procedures and home care for active natural restoration and rejuvenation of the skin, as a result of which the epidermis is not damaged, but new collagen is formed and the structure is renewed cells, penetrating to the papillary layer of the dermis, triggering a cascade of reactions, deeply stimulating the skin. The drug has an international patent for a unique formula after 10 years of clinical trials, more than 100 scientific studies have been conducted proving the effectiveness of the drug and more than 100 million procedures, it is safe to use even at home, there are no seasonal restrictions, the procedure takes place without much pain and has no rehabilitation period. But, even with such characteristics of the drug, after its use there may be deviations associated with your individual characteristics and skin reactions, which the specialist performing the procedure cannot determine in any way; accordingly, the rehabilitation period can be increased.

!!! In this regard, we strongly advise you to take a thorough and balanced approach to making the decision to undergo a chemical peeling procedure and be prepared for the need to carry out the procedure in a course with a stronger concentration of the agents used or, conversely, for an increased rehabilitation period after the chemical peeling procedure, as well as the maximum inform the specialist about any individual or previously encountered allergic reactions to certain cosmetics and medications, about the cosmetics used and the current state of the body.

During a chemical peel procedure, the following are often possible:

• increased skin sensitivity (due to thinning of the epidermis);
• skin redness;
• a feeling of dryness, tightness, tingling up to a slight burning sensation, peeling of the skin;
• rash (for example, with acne this is normal, their number gradually decreases and finally disappears).

Pre-peeling preparation

• Adapts the skin to the effects of acids, evens out the upper layer of the epidermis, which ensures better and more uniform penetration of the peeling.
• To prepare for 2 weeks before starting the peeling course, use cosmetics with a small percentage of acids - cleansers, serums, creams with an acid content of 6-12% and a fairly high pH.
• So, for AHA acids, the minimum effective indicators for a daily product are 5-8% at pH 3-4, and for BHA acids (salicylic) - 1-2% at pH 3-4.

Post-peeling care

• For 2 weeks after the chemical peel procedure, use the same daily products with a small percentage of acids as during the pre-peel preparation. Use soothing, healing, restorative, therapeutic post-peeling masks, serums and creams. This will help avoid complications, soothe the skin, speed up regeneration and saturate the skin with active ingredients as much as possible.
• Choose products from the list prescribed by your cosmetologist and strictly follow his recommendations.

We hope that now you understand why most cosmetology services , including peelings, are included in the list of works (services) that constitute medical activities and are subject to mandatory licensing (Resolution of the Government of the Russian Federation of April 16, 2012 N 291 On licensing of medical activities) . The Beauty and Health Center “Philosophy of Excellence” has the appropriate license and has the right to provide this type of service.

The presence of this license imposes certain obligations on the institution, including on staff in terms of its level of education.

Thus, the minimum requirements for a specialist performing chemical peeling, according to the order of the Ministry of Health and Social Development of the Russian Federation dated April 18, 2012 N 381n (On approval of the Procedure for providing medical care to the population in the field of cosmetology) and order dated October 13, 2022 N 804n (On approval nomenclature of medical services) is the presence of additional education - professional retraining in the specialty “Nursing in cosmetology” with secondary vocational education in one of the specialties: “General Medicine”, “Midwifery”, “Nursing”.

A cosmetology nurse must have:

• depilation techniques with wax, sugar, cosmetics;
• care techniques, which include: massage (face, body, anti-cellulite, medical), skin cleansing (chemical or mechanical abrasive peeling), wraps and masks; techniques used in cryotherapy (when the body is exposed to low temperatures in order to achieve a rejuvenating effect);
• injection techniques: mesotherapy (intradermal injection of nutritional cocktails of vitamins and biologically active substances), botulinum therapy, contour plastic surgery, PRP technologies; hardware procedures - laser and photoepilation, vacuum massage, etc.;
• first aid techniques in case of allergic reactions in a patient.

!!! Therefore, even if a specialist has a certificate of completion of any courses in peeling techniques, but does not have the appropriate education, such a specialist does not have the right to provide this type of cosmetic procedures, even if the institution is licensed to provide medical services in the field of cosmetology. Unfortunately, few people know about this nuance, which unscrupulous beauty salons and private masters take advantage of by providing their clients with such certificates, which in fact do not give either the right to provide such a service or confirm the required educational minimum, thereby putting their client’s health in danger.

At the Philosophy of Excellence Beauty and Health Center, all employees have the appropriate education - we strictly comply with all the requirements of the licensee and take care of the health and safety of our Guests. You can always view information about the education of our employees, as well as other information required to be published by a medical institution, on our website.

Dear girls, women! Be careful in choosing an institution and a specialist when deciding to undergo a chemical peeling procedure! Taking care of your health, Beauty and Health Center “Philosophy of Excellence”.

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Contraindications for use

Before the procedure, a consultation with a cosmetologist is required, who will assess the condition of the skin and confirm the absence of restrictions, because Jessner peeling has the following list of contraindications:

• rosacea;
• autoimmune disorders;
• oncological pathologies;
• period of pregnancy and lactation;
• infectious and viral dermatological diseases (herpes, etc.);
• damage to the skin and neoplasms (abrasions, scratches, papillomas, local purulent inflammation, warts);
• allergic reactions to the components of the product;
• endocrine diseases (diabetes mellitus, etc.);
• elevated body temperature and other symptoms of ARVI;
• taking drugs of the retinoid group (Roaccutane, etc.).

Operating principle and effectiveness of Enerpil peeling

Everyone knows that peelings have a very aggressive effect on the face. The procedures are very traumatic for the epidermis and also painful. After surgery, a long recovery period should be expected.

But modern drugs provide more gentle care. Various aqueous peeling solutions are designed not only to rejuvenate the skin, but also to reduce its trauma. This effect is achieved by reducing the acid concentration. But the effectiveness of the procedure decreases because of this nuance.

But there is another solution to this problem.

The developers of the Enerpil substance have created a unique technology that reduces injury and irritation when treating the epidermis. But at the same time, the effectiveness of the procedure is maintained. This peeling is practically painless and also requires a short recovery period.

If you use this type of procedure, then you can minimize the risk of complications after surgery. The Enerpeel product line includes a lot of products, for example, peeling Enerpeel JR, TCA, HANDS. They all have different and very effective effects. The drugs are used to solve various skin problems.

The wide range is explained by the fact that manufacturers mix different acids, which will have different effects on the epidermis.

Enerpil is a convenient, light and economical product that will help get rid of skin aging.

Main stages of peeling

Chemical exfoliation is carried out in several stages. Preparation includes removing makeup and surface contaminants, as well as treating with a special degreasing compound. Jessner's solution is then applied. The number of layers and duration of exposure are determined by the cosmetologist depending on the condition of the skin, the nature, severity of the problem and the expected result. At the end of the procedure, the product is washed off with a special liquid that neutralizes the active components.

For serious rashes and defects in the relief of the dermis, a course of several sessions (up to 8) is required. After peeling, a white coating resembling frost forms on the face. After the procedure, you cannot use foundation or wash your face for a week, so you will have to leave the clinic in this form. The duration of the session is no more than 30 minutes. The action of the solution causes a burning and tingling sensation. Many salons use a small fan or fan to reduce discomfort. The recovery period takes about a week. After peeling, one day, redness, swelling, skin tightness and intense peeling are observed.

Why did we decide that this peeling is better?

Enerpeel is an Italian chemical peeling based on mandelic, malic and lactic acid. It improves skin condition through controlled removal of the stratum corneum, which subsequently triggers the regeneration of new epidermis. However, Enerpeel works a little differently than other chemical peels!

Enerpeel manufacturers have used a new, patented technology that helps limit the activity of acids until they are completely absorbed into the skin.

This mechanism minimizes damage to the epidermis and limits subsequent redness, irritation and peeling . At the same time, the product promotes skin remodeling (including the upper dermis) from the inside.

A special nozzle for applying the gel helps to further reduce the risk of damage The teeth on it serve as a dispenser, which helps to apply the right amount of exfoliant.

In general, the procedure is unique - a patented composition, a unique patented dispenser - all this makes this peeling special!

Someone may ask: just think, a dispenser nozzle, what does it have to do with it?

Our cosmetologists also asked during training (and all our cosmetologists were trained by the manufacturer!).

Answer: unlike other peelings, you and the cosmetologist clearly know how much of the composition gets on the skin.

Jessner peeling in the center

Bionika beauty and health center cosmetologists perform a peeling procedure using safe preparations and carefully monitor the skin's reaction during the session. The condition of the dermis, the nature of the existing problems and their severity must be assessed in advance. A professional approach allows you to restore beauty, health and youthful appearance to the skin when signs of aging, acne, oily seborrhea, age spots, post-acne and other indications appear. After chemical exfoliation, the specialist gives detailed recommendations for home care, which will allow you to achieve the most pronounced results and avoid unpleasant consequences.

Effect and result from Enerpeel

Enerpeel EL peeling helps improve the structure of the epidermis and stimulates the upper dermis.

After a course of Enerpeel procedures you will lose:

• fine wrinkles;
• dark circles and eyelid pigmentation;
• dark spots;
• turgor and skin tone will improve.

The effectiveness of Enerpeel EL has been confirmed by the results of clinical trials for more than 10 years!

The most important feature of peeling is the stimulation of the vital activity of the elements of the upper dermis, the “restart” of renewal processes!

By toning, whitening and smoothing the skin, your face will look fresh and rejuvenated. The eyelids will tighten a little and the look will become more open.

Enerpil peeling lines

1. Enerpeel GA with 70% glycolic acid. It is used in case of the first signs of age-related changes.
2. PA. The substance contains 50% pyruvic acid. Recommended for use in cases of moderate age-related changes in the skin. Also used in case of acne, oily skin or stretch marks.
3. SA with salicylic acid content - 30%. Used to get rid of acne and seborrhea.
4. J.R. The drug contains resorcinol, salicylic acid, and lactic acid in proportions of 14, 15 and 20%, respectively. It is used in case of moderate age-related changes in the skin.
5. TCA or SA with added 15% salicylic acid. Used to eliminate problems with acne, post-acne, and pigmentation.
6. TCA The drug contains 40% trichloroacetic acid. It is used to combat obvious signs of age-related changes in the epidermis, post-acne, hyperpigmentation.
7. TCA LP. 25% trichloroacetic acid, dimethyl sulfone. Peeling has a medium-superficial effect. Used to eliminate age spots and scars.
8. NECK. The peeling composition includes 5% lactic acid and 35% pyruvic acid. Recommended for use as a preventive measure to eliminate skin aging.
9. HANDS - 10% lactic acid, 20% trichloroacetic acid. Used for preventive purposes to treat hands.
10. EL - 15% lactic acid, 3.75% trichloroacetic acid. The drug is used for preventive purposes to treat lips and eyes.

Important! All peels and other skin rejuvenation preparations are classified as medical products. This means that only a dermatologist can prescribe them. If you select it yourself, you may experience skin problems.

How does the Enerpil peeling process work?

At the first meeting with a doctor, the specialist asks certain questions and fills out a special questionnaire. Thus, various problems can be avoided in the presence of contraindications. In some cases, special preparation is required before using a chemical peel. Your doctor may suggest certain medications to take at home. They contain a minimal amount of the acid that will be placed on the skin.

The doctor treats the skin using a special solution applied to a cotton pad.

After this, a substance of a certain concentration is applied to the selected area of ​​skin. The protocol of the procedure is strictly followed.

During the entire operation, the doctor carefully monitors the condition of the skin.

Patients usually do not experience discomfort. But there may be a slight burning or tingling sensation. If it becomes unpleasant when applying the drug, then you should immediately consult a doctor. It will reduce pain with air flow.

When the composition is removed from the skin, the doctor uses a neutralizer, which completely removes the substance from the epidermis.

After a certain amount of time, the neutralizer is also removed from the skin and a special gel or cream is applied.

Interesting! Enerpil peels often contain trichloroacetic acid TCA in varying concentrations. Thanks to this substance, cosmetologists can carry out the process of skin rejuvenation without serious consequences.

If you decide to carry out the peeling procedure yourself at home, be sure to read the instructions. This way you can avoid many mistakes when using the drug.

Procedure protocol

The physician applying the substance will follow the following procedure protocol:

Stage number one. Degreasing and cleansing the skin.

Stage number two. After high-quality cleansing of the skin, the specialist proceeds to applying the peeling itself.

Stage number three. After all the work has been completed, you need to complete the operation correctly. After application and peeling, the doctor will carefully remove the acid from the face. A neutralizer is used for this. If this is not done, the patient may feel discomfort and severe burning even after the procedures are completed.

The specialist knows exactly all the necessary dosages and timing of the rejuvenation surgery. They are indicated in the protocol.

Recovery

After washing off the peeling agent, the recovery stage begins, during which it is necessary to carefully care for the face. In order for the discomfort after acid exposure to disappear faster and the skin to recover easily, you must follow the rules of post-treatment care:

• do not wash your face for the first 24 hours;
• for the first 5 days do not use skincare and decorative cosmetics (moisturizers are allowed);
• for 2 weeks, avoid prolonged exposure to the sun; when going outside, use cream with a UV filter;
• do not peel off the resulting crust (it should come off on its own);
• do not massage your face;
• do not go to the bathhouse, solarium, or swimming pool for 2 months;
• do not engage in intense sports training that causes sweating;
• to speed up regeneration, use pharmaceutical preparations Bepanten, D-Panthenol, treat the skin with them 5 times a day;
• 3 days after the procedure, to eliminate peeling, use preparations based on cosmetic oils, wax, retinol, panthenol, and plant extracts.

Indications and contraindications

You can use Enerpil glycolic peeling or other varieties in the following cases:

1. If there is chronoaging and photoaging of the epidermis.
2. For hyperpigmentation.
3. For uneven epidermal relief.
4. When small wrinkles occur.
5. When skin turgor decreases.

Although Enerpil brand facial products are very effective and reduce the risk of various problems after treatment, you need to pay attention to possible contraindications.

The drug should not be used for:

1. Hypersensitivity to various components included in the product.
2. The occurrence of infection on the epidermis.
3. Pregnancy.
4. Hormonal contraception.
5. Frequently visiting beaches in the open sun.
6. Neurotic state.

To avoid complications and problems during use, do not use peeling if you have at least one of the problems described above.

Important! Sunbathing enthusiasts are not recommended to use peeling. The drug must be used with sunscreen. Otherwise, the desired effect will not be achieved.