Azelaine peeling: a review of the best remedies for getting rid of pimples, acne and rosacea

In matters of deep cleansing of the skin and exfoliation of dead cells and keratinized layers, acids play a leading role. Azelaine peeling is one of the favorite options for chemical cleansing, which can not only correct age-related skin imperfections, but also cope with rosacea, rosacea, and acne on the face. Cosmetologists recommend using products with azelaic acid for patients with problematic and sensitive skin for therapeutic and preventive purposes. Let’s look further at the benefits and features of the azelaine procedure.

Benefits of azelaic acid for skin

Azelaic acid is a faithful assistant and doctor for problematic and oily skin prone to acne and acne. The chemical compound is also called nonanedioic acid and belongs to the category of carboxylic acids. The active component is obtained biochemically, by oxidation of linoleic and oleic acid.

Despite the chemical nature of its appearance, azelaic acid has medicinal and beneficial properties, is widely used in the production of medicinal creams, gels, and is also very popular in cosmetology for cleansing and healing the skin.

The benefits of azelaic acid and its difference from other chemical cleansers are as follows:

• relieves inflammation (after the procedure, painful redness goes away faster, reducing the risk of their occurrence in the future);
• has an antibacterial effect, especially against Staphylococcus epidermidis and Propionibacterium acnes;
• deeply cleanses pores, preventing the appearance of comedones, blackheads, and sebaceous plugs;
• normalizes the secretion of the sebaceous glands;
• actively fights folliculitis, post-acne, age spots, evens out and whitens the complexion;
• neutralizes toxins thanks to its high antioxidant properties;
• acts as an excellent antiseptic (relevant for acne, acne);
• improves tissue regeneration, renewal, increases skin turgor and tone.

Attention! Azelaic acid is not used on its own. Additionally, the peeling composition includes mandelic, lactic, salicylic or glycolic acids. The complex effect of chemical compounds provides a more pronounced and lasting effect.

The azelaic substance is present in small amounts in skin cells, so acid cleansing rarely causes complications.

For the preparation of cosmetics, nonandioic acid is used in a concentration of 1–20%. For peeling, cosmetologists use solutions with a higher content of chemical compounds (up to 30%). In this case, burning and tingling may occur, accompanied by slight redness.

The essence of the procedure

Products with azelaic acid affect the skin simultaneously in several directions:

1. Deeply and gently cleanses. Penetrating deep into the epidermis, acid molecules dissolve the bonds between dead cells, stimulating their easy and rapid removal.
2. Whitens skin. Azelain particles block the activity of melanocytes, which provoke melasma and other types of pathological hyperpigmentation. This helps even out the tone and prevent the appearance of age spots.
3. Completely eliminates acne, rosacea, and other dermatological problems. Nonandioic acid has high bacteriostatic activity. It will be destructive for Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus epidermidis. Regular use of the product helps reduce the number of problematic elements and reduce the risk of their occurrence after therapy.
4. Refreshes, eliminates greasy shine. Acid particles stabilize the work and secretion of the sebaceous glands, help to establish self-cleaning of the mouths of the glands, prevent clogging of pores and the appearance of comedones.
5. Restores the “breathing” of the skin, improves tone and elasticity of fibers, smoothes wrinkles and slows down the aging process. After azelaine peeling, the skin is more sensitive to active serums and nourishing creams. They quickly absorb beneficial components, thereby increasing the effectiveness of cosmetic products and improving the quality of the skin.

Cosmetologists recommend using azelaine peeling for rejuvenation only in combination with other cosmetic procedures. One cleansing can only give a superficial and short-lived effect of youth, freshness, nothing more. You can reinforce and enhance the achieved result with microdermabrasion, laser resurfacing, and deep acid peeling.

It is recommended that the procedure be performed by a highly qualified cosmetologist, although peeling at home is also possible. But keep in mind that home cleansing cannot guarantee the declared effect, plus it increases the risk of developing side effects and complications.

You can purchase an exfoliant in an online store, from your cosmetologist or in professional cosmetics stores. Don’t forget to pay attention to whether the seller has the appropriate documentation confirming the quality and originality of the product, and to make sure that the packaging is intact and that the expiration date has not expired.

Some girls take a big risk when purchasing concentrated azelaic acid at the pharmacy. Incorrect dilution proportions lead to burns, prolonged redness, and dry skin.

Note! Ready-made cosmetic products for peeling have a balanced composition and are supplemented with emollient additives, so the process of acid exposure is easier to control. But they are more difficult to buy (many manufacturers work only with cosmetologists), and the cost will be rather high.

Indications for use

Cosmetologists prefer to prescribe azelaine peeling to clients with dermatological problems and oily skin types, although the procedure has no restrictions on the type of skin. In most cases, indications for acid exposure are:

• acne in adults, adolescents;
• rosacea, demodicosis;
• folliculitis and manifestations of ingrown hairs in the skin;
• acne, seborrhea and dermatitis of any degree;
• rosacea (vascular spider veins on the face);
• comedones, blackheads;
• excessive production of sebaceous secretions;
• pathological hyperpigmentation, melasma;
• signs of photoaging, including those caused by prolonged exposure to the sun;
• expression lines, age wrinkles;
• dullness, grayness of complexion.

Azelaine peeling is often used to prepare for complex cosmetic procedures for skin rejuvenation (microcrystalline dermabrasion, laser treatment).

The procedure has no age restrictions. Peeling will be useful in adolescence or adulthood, if there are appropriate indications.

Peeling effectiveness

Expecting an instant transformation and cure of problems on the face, many patients are very disappointed after the peeling. One procedure is not enough to solve the problems; course therapy is required.

The number of peelings is determined only by a cosmetologist after a detailed analysis of the condition of the skin. As a rule, these are 5–12 procedures, once every 1–1.5 weeks.

The effect of therapy lasts for about 6 months, after which the course is repeated. A significant advantage of azelaic acid is that it is not addictive, so it is suitable for long-term use.

After a course of acid exposure, you can expect the following changes:

• the greasy shine of the integument is replaced by a healthy glow;
• skin tone is evened out;
• the number of problematic, inflamed elements is significantly reduced;
• the face becomes clean, without blackheads;
• the skin becomes more elastic, elastic, tone and turgor increase;
• the face looks fresher, younger.

Before and after photos

For comparison, photographs of problem skin are shown before chemical exposure to azelaine and after a course of 10 procedures.

Ready-made drugs

Choosing a peeling product is the first step on the path to perfect, healthy skin. For the average user, it can become an insurmountable barrier, thanks to the diversity and richness of the range of drugs with azelaic acid. In this case, it is better to trust the experience and opinion of your cosmetologist. Let us note several products that cosmetologists trust and use in their work.

MediDerma

MediDerma is a well-known Spanish brand of professional cosmetics, loved by cosmetologists for its high quality products and loyal pricing policy. The company offers a whole line of products for azelaine peeling. With their help, you can get rid of melasma, hyperpigmentation, acne, stagnant post-acne spots and a number of dermatological diseases, smooth out fine wrinkles, even out skin color and normalize the functioning of the sebaceous glands.

Important point! Mediderm peels can be used individually, but to quickly solve the problem, you should adhere to a complex effect.

They differ in composition and acidity. All products are universal, suitable for any skin type and age. Designed for salon procedures. The depth of impact is also controlled by the number of layers applied.

Azelak M. Peeling contains azelaic (15%), salicylic (18%) and mandelic (10%) acids, camellia extract. pH level 1.0. Used for face, neck. Mediderma peeling costs about 7,350 rubles per 60 ml.

Azelac RU . The peeling product contains, in addition to azelaic acid (20%), mandelic (10%), phytic (5%) and ferulic acids (2%), 4N-butylresorcinol (5%). pH level 1.0. Area of ​​application: face, neck. The price of a package (60 ml) is 7800 rubles.

Azelac exfoliating gel . The active components of the peeling are azelaic acid (20%) and lactic acid (3.5%), thistle extract (2%). pH level 2.5. Area of ​​application: face, neck. The cost of a 100 ml package is 10,890 rubles.

GIGI

Bioplasma Azelaic Peel from GiGi (Israel) is a gel-based azelaic peeling. The product contains a complex of acids (azelaic, malic, glycolic, tartaric, citric), extracts of algae, plankton, and olive oil. The cosmetic product is suitable for all skin types, provides deep and delicate cleansing, heals and rejuvenates the skin.

Peeling gel is applied to cleansed skin in a thick layer for 5–10 minutes and accompanied by a light massage. The exposure time depends on the degree of sensitivity of the skin and is adjusted individually.

The total cost of the product is 7680 rubles, volume 200 ml.

Simildiet

According to the manufacturer, Simildiet professional cosmetics (Spain) do not cause side effects and have no contraindications. In other words, absolutely universal.

Azelaic facial peeling Peeling Azelaico has a gel texture and contains azelaic (20%), salicylic (2%) and lactic (3%) acids, arnica extract (5%). pH level 3.14.

The product delicately removes dead skin layers and ensures deep penetration of nutritional components into the deep layers of the skin. Indicated for folliculitis, rosacea, hyperkeratosis, oily seborrhea, acne, comedones. Recommended for those with oily and problematic skin.

Performed in courses of 5–7 procedures with an interval of 10–15 days. Apply the product to cleansed and prepared skin. The exposure time is determined individually (before the appearance of hyperemia). Then the composition is neutralized, and a peeling treatment is applied to the face.

Cost - 6200 rubles, volume 60 ml.

Expert opinion

• Cosmetologist
• Surgeon

Michelle Ellern

practicing cosmetologist-dermatologist

I perform azelaine peeling more often as a preparatory stage for a deeper cleansing of the epidermis. As an independent procedure, it gives a good preventive effect only on clean, healthy skin. If there are cosmetic problems, then I carry it out only in combination with other types of cleaning.

Theda Contis

plastic surgeon

You need to understand that any chemical peeling is a reaction between skin cells and a solution, which results in the destruction of the surface layer of the epidermis and cellular renewal.
It is important to choose the chemical composition in accordance with your skin type so that it copes with the assigned tasks. Azelaine peeling is one of the few compositions that is suitable for all types of epidermis. It gently exfoliates the stratum corneum and almost never causes side effects. Azelin peeling is popular among cosmetologists. With its help, you can thoroughly cleanse the skin and prepare it for more serious procedures.

This procedure helps eliminate problems such as pigmentation, acne, etc. And for this you don’t have to go to a cosmetologist, since there are products for sale for home use.

Preparing the skin for the procedure correctly

To prevent acid exposure from resulting in complications and a long rehabilitation period, it is important to properly prepare the skin for the procedure. What is meant?

1. Choose a first-class clinic, beauty salon. Your health, the outcome of the cosmetic procedure and the speed of skin restoration largely depend on the professionalism of the cosmetologist.
2. Visit a cosmetologist. A detailed study of the problem and the characteristics of the skin will allow you to choose the optimal type of cleansing, peeling agent, frequency and amount of exposure required.
3. Even if you decide to do peeling yourself at home, a visit to a cosmetologist is mandatory.
4. Identify contraindications and conduct an allergy test to rule out irritation, allergic rash and other complications after peeling.
5. Take care of skin hydration. Use creams with a small content of fruit acids 2 weeks before peeling. This will soften the upper layer of the epidermis, ensuring a deeper and more uniform effect of the azelaine product.
6. 2-3 days before cleansing, check how the skin reacts to azelaic acid.
7. There is no need to plan or fine-tune therapy until early spring or late autumn. Nonandium peeling can be performed even in summer.

Important point! It happens that for some reason the client was unable to properly prepare the skin for the procedure. In this case, the acidic agent is kept for a minimum time; in subsequent sessions, the duration of exposition is increased.

Protocol

Exposure to the nonandium composition is carried out in a strictly specified sequence. Deviation from the instructions may result in burns or poor results. Please ensure that the cosmetologist prints out the product in front of you and enters its data into the patient’s record. It would be useful to verify the suitability of the drug and the availability of a certificate.

The algorithm for performing acid exposure is as follows:

1. Remnants of makeup are removed from the face. A soft cleanser (foam, milk, lotion) with glycolic acid 3% helps the cosmetologist remove particles of sweat and properly prepare the skin for exfoliation.
2. To protect sensitive areas (near the eyes, surface of the lips and corners of the mouth) from the aggressive effects of acid, cream is applied to them. Its composition necessarily contains silicone derivatives and other chemical components that block acidic effects.
3. If necessary, the cosmetologist prepares the peeling product by mixing it with an antiseptic liquid in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer. The acid concentration is 15–30%.
4. The prepared composition is distributed evenly over the surface of the face using a brush or pipette and rubbed into the skin with light massage movements. At this moment, the patient may feel a slight tingling, slight burning sensation. The massage should be stopped when the fingers stop sliding over the skin. The exposure time depends on several factors: the concentration of the product, its acidity, skin characteristics and the wishes of the client.
5. Some manufacturing companies recommend applying several layers of exfoliant to ensure a deeper effect. In this case, the first layer of the product is applied, left for 1-2 minutes, then the next one is applied.
6. To neutralize and remove exfoliant residues, the cosmetologist uses distilled water or a neutralizer offered by the manufacturer of the peeling product used.
7. Your face may turn slightly red during cleansing. Special masks and serums will help soothe the skin, saturate it with important microelements, vitamins, nutritional supplements for quick recovery and prevent the appearance of spider veins on the face. The bioconcentrate is applied to the patient’s skin and is not washed off for 6 hours.

The entire cleansing process with azelaic acid takes 20–30 minutes. At the end of the peeling, the cosmetologist discusses possible side effects and rules for skin care during the post-peeling period, and sets a date for the next appointment. The patient recovers home.

Stages of azelaine peeling

1. Consultation and examination - collecting anamnesis, identifying contraindications, designating a treatment regimen.
2. Preparation - use of moisturizing creams with 5-10% AHA acids to adapt and smooth the skin 10-14 days before the start of the course.
3. Sensitivity test - applying an exfoliant to the crook of the elbow for 30 minutes to detect allergic manifestations.
4. Cleansing before peeling - removing impurities using milk or foam with natural moisturizing ingredients.
5. Degreasing - rubbing with lotion with 3% glycolic acid to enhance penetration of ingredients.
6. Protect mucous membranes, lips, and corners of the eyes with special preparations containing petroleum jelly or silicone polymers to prevent acid from entering vulnerable areas.
7. Peeling - treatment of the skin with 15-30% azelaic acid with pH 1.8-3.0 in 1-3 layers by massaging for 5-10 minutes from the periphery to the center: forehead, temples, cheeks, chin, eyelids, nose, nasolabial triangle. The exposure time and number of layers may vary depending on the type of preparation.
8. Removing the composition with cool water.
9. Applying soothing agents - licorice extract, retinol, vitamin E and sunscreen.

Healing period

After superficial peeling with nonandioic acid, patients' faces appear pinkish, without pronounced traces of acid exposure. Restoration of the skin after exposure to acid takes up to 2 weeks. At this time it is recommended:

• provide sufficient hydration to the skin, use softening and nourishing products of light texture (fluids);
• refuse cosmetics with abrasive and aggressive chemical particles;
• constantly protect weakened skin from sun exposure, choose sunscreens and lotions with SPF 30 and higher;
• if necessary and on the recommendation of a specialist, use regenerating ointments, gels (Bepanten, D-panthenol);
• to prevent herpes rashes, the patient is prescribed antiviral drugs;
• do not visit baths, saunas, swimming pools, postpone active sports;
• avoid direct sunlight on the face;
• Until complete recovery, forget about tanning and going to the solarium;
• The cosmetologist provides additional recommendations and referrals for restorative procedures on an individual basis, in the presence of side effects and complications.

Attention! Cosmetologists strongly recommend using post-peeling products of the same brand as the peeling. This will provide complete skin care and speed up healing.

Instructions for use (5 steps)

Peeling is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Before peeling, you must thoroughly cleanse your face of dirt, makeup, and degrease the epidermis.
2. Apply 1 thin layer of product to skin. Distribute using rubbing movements until your fingers stop slipping.
3. Azelaic acid should not be allowed to come into contact with the mucous membranes of the mouth, nose, or eyes. Wait until completely dry and apply the 2nd layer.
4. If necessary, the composition can be distributed pointwise, only on problem areas. The duration of the procedure is 15 minutes. If your skin is sensitive, areas with white spots may appear. This effect can be neutralized by immediately rinsing with cold water.
5. After cleansing the skin of the composition, dry it with a towel and apply moisturizing, softening, sunscreen cosmetics (creams, lotions).

Cost of the procedure in the salon

It is better to entrust any chemical peeling to professionals. Many years of experience in performing peelings, confident, quick and clear actions of the cosmetologist are the key points in achieving high results and problem-free recovery.

The price of peeling in different beauty salons, clinics, and medical centers can vary significantly. This is due to the brand and cost of the drugs and cosmetics used.

To a lesser extent, the price of the procedure is influenced by the rating and location of the clinic, the quality of the cosmetologist, and additional services. The estimated cost in Moscow is 2–3 thousand rubles per session.

Features of carrying out at home

Azelaine peeling at home can also be performed, the procedure is identical to the salon one. But you must consider the possible risks of complications. You also need:

1. Before carrying out the procedure, seek advice from a cosmetologist; the presence of contraindications, even if the cleaning is performed correctly, can end sadly.
2. Purchase a peeling product with a gentle composition, an acceptable pH level (above 3.0) and a low concentration of acidic components.
3. Carefully study the instructions from the manufacturer and follow them unquestioningly.
4. In case of severe discomfort or burning of the skin after applying the composition, without waiting for the specified exposure time, immediately neutralize it and rinse it off.
5. Provide sterile conditions, act quickly, without fuss.

The effect of a home procedure in most cases differs from professional use and is less pronounced. The reason for this may be an incorrectly selected composition or exposure time of the drug. Therefore, the first peeling should be done only by a cosmetologist.

Precautionary measures

Despite the delicacy of the effect and therapeutic effect, the exfoliation procedure has a number of limitations.

Contraindications

The main contraindications include:

• pregnancy;
• breastfeeding (lactation period);
• allergy to the components of the drug;
• inflammation of the integument, except for cases specified by the indications for cleaning;
• herpes in the active stage;
• fresh tan;
• open wounds, abrasions, damage to the skin in the treatment area.

The relative restriction for performing the procedure is age under 18 years. If indicated, the doctor, after a detailed analysis of the problem, may prescribe peeling for medicinal purposes.

Exfoliation is performed all year round, but do not forget about protection from sunlight even in cloudy weather.

Side effects and complications

Side effects are unusual for azelaine peeling. Violation of the protocol for preparing and carrying out the procedure, neglect of contraindications can provoke the following unpleasant phenomena:

• feeling of tightness, excessive dryness of the skin;
• enlarged pores;
• tissue swelling in the affected area;
• infection of the integument, exacerbation of acne, seborrhea;
• exacerbation of herpes;
• allergic reaction to the drug (rash, irritation, itching);
• persistent erythema;
• hyperpigmentation;
• increased skin sensitivity;
• formation of keloid scars.

The appearance of one of these phenomena should alert you and become a reason to contact a specialist. Self-medication can be harmful and make the problem worse. Only a cosmetologist prescribes appropriate treatment and corrects skin care.

Possible complications

As already noted, virtually no side effects are observed after the azelaine peeling procedure. Reviews extremely rarely contain information about negative consequences, but this still happens. Among the complications women name:

1. Overdrying, which can be easily removed with creams and masks containing collagen, tea tree extracts, chamomile, vitamin E.
2. A skin infection that requires antibiotics to treat.
3. Exacerbation of herpes.
4. Allergy. In this case, you should definitely consult your doctor.

To avoid negative consequences, you need to choose a specialist wisely and strictly follow the recommendations of the chosen cosmetologist.

Advantages and disadvantages

Despite the fact that exfoliation with azelaic acid is recommended for problematic and oily skin, those with normal and combination skin types are in a hurry to use it. All this thanks to an impressive list of advantages.

Advantages of the procedure:

• gentle and deep cleansing of the epidermis without peeling or usual post-peeling effects;
• has a therapeutic effect, is indicated for demodicosis, seborrhea, acne and other dermatological problems;
• acts in several directions simultaneously (cleanses, normalizes the secretion of sebaceous glands, evens out facial tone and skin texture, revitalizes);
• has a short rehabilitation period;
• side effects rarely occur;
• can be performed at any time of the year, even in summer;
• is not addictive;
• has a minimum of contraindications and restrictions;
• can be done at home;
• perfectly prepares the skin for complex cosmetic procedures (for example, diamond or laser resurfacing), increasing their effectiveness;
• acceptable price.

Surprisingly, the procedure has no disadvantages.

Opinion of cosmetologists

Professionals continue to recognize the effectiveness and gentleness of the effects of azelaic acid. Products from well-known manufacturers GIGI, MediDerma, Simildiet delight cosmetologists and patients with a high therapeutic effect and the absence of side effects.

There are a few more significant advantages of azelaine: it is easily neutralized with water and combines well with other cosmetic programs.

Cosmetologists recommend using azelaine peeling not only on the face, but also to treat inflamed areas and acne on the back.

How much does peeling cost at the Doctor Grshkyan clinic in Moscow?

Superficial peeling

User reviews

Finding patient reviews about the procedure is difficult. Not everyone decides to perform peeling for problem skin on their own, plus the cost of professional products is quite impressive. There are also no negative opinions about peeling with azelaic acid.

In conclusion, I would like to note that azelaine peeling is a simple and effective way to solve skin problems such as acne, folliculitis, acne, and rosacea. To guarantee success and cure the disease, it is important to choose an experienced cosmetologist and follow his recommendations. By performing azelaine peeling at home, you risk aggravating the situation.

Skin cleansing results

If you do everything correctly , the results will be as follows:

• you will be cured of skin ailments;
• wrinkles will be smoothed out;
• the skin will tighten a little;
• problematic pigmented areas will lighten.
• Age spots fade, but one procedure is not enough.

The procedure does not produce a noticeable result for the purpose of treating acne if the disease is not caused by bacteria. But the changes will still be positive.

Azelaic acid successfully fights, first of all, against viruses and bacteria, which quickly multiply when exposed to favorable conditions and provoke skin problems.