Medical Research Data
The number of officially registered studies on the use of external retinoids is enormous. Below are the conclusions obtained from a number of them:
- The concentration of retinoids in cosmetic preparations is not so high; moreover, they are practically not absorbed into the blood to provide a systemic effect.
- Over the past 30 years, no systemic side effects have been reported with long-term use of topical retinoids.
- External use of retinoids has an exclusively local effect, without penetrating to the level of the entire body.
The best brands
A girl who decides to buy cosmetics from a pharmacy for the first time will find that the vast majority of brands are made in France. This country has a huge number of laboratories that create skin care products with a healing effect. Israel is trying to catch up with France. And also Germany. Nevertheless, France remains the undisputed leader.
The best pharmacy face creams are produced by the following brands:
- Bioderma. The pharmaceutical laboratory producing cosmetics under the Bioderma brand was founded more than 40 years ago. This is one of the most popular brands in France. The products contain no essential oils, parabens or artificial colors.
- La Roche-Posay. The owner of this cosmetic brand is the L'Oreal concern. La Roche-Posay is a small village famous for its thermal water, rich in selenium. Its healing effects on the skin were discovered back in the 17th century. It is this thermal water that is included in all cosmetic products.
- Avene. Another name for a charming French village with a thermal spring. Avene water first attracted the attention of doctors in 1736. It contains silicon dioxide and is bacteriologically pure. Seven years later, baths were built in the village and new patients arrived. This unique water is the basis of Avene cosmetics.
- Uriage. This French brand was registered in 1992. The healing properties of the Uriage thermal spring were used by the Romans more than two thousand years ago. The composition of thermal water is isotonic to human plasma. Due to this, the liquid is used in dermatology, otolaryngology and rheumatology.
- Vichy. It is possible that this particular brand produces the most popular pharmacy face creams. It belongs to the L'Oreal concern. The history of the brand began in 1931, in the city of Vichy, in whose honor it received its name. Since then, all cosmetic products of the brand contain Vichy thermal water. It is believed that it is impossible to reproduce its unique composition in laboratory conditions.
- Lierac. A French brand based not on thermal water, but on plant extracts. It was founded in 1975 by a dermatologist. This cosmetics allows you to get rid of various skin imperfections at home.
- Galenic. Over its half-century history, this French brand has managed to conquer several generations of women. Galenic cosmetics are based on unique formulas created on the basis of herbal ingredients.
Metabolism of retinoids in the skin
The metabolism of retinoids (retinol, retinaldehyde and retinoic acid) was studied in cultured human skin and skin fibroblasts from biopsies.
Research methods : radioactive and liquid chromatography.
Results were assessed 24 hours after application:
- 75% of retinoids were localized in the epidermis
- 20% in dermis
- 2% in culture medium
Summary : the concentration of retinoids that can potentially penetrate to the level of the entire body is negligible!
The first signs of aging
Skin aging begins at age 25. The renewal processes in the epidermis gradually decrease, the state of collagen fibers changes, and the hydrolipid mantle weakens. And also the frame. Externally, this is manifested by a decrease in skin turgor and deterioration of complexion. In addition, the first wrinkles and circles under the eyes appear in the facial zones.
The best pharmacy creams can quickly eliminate the first signs of aging. Dermatologists recommend paying attention to the following products:
- Vichy Slow Age. Night cream fights the effects of poor diet, stress, and smoking. And also lack of sleep. It corrects the first signs of aging, saturates the skin with oxygen, moisturizes and smoothes it. The day cream from this series creates a protective barrier and strengthens the epidermis. It prevents the appearance of the first signs of aging.
- Lierac Deridium. Vitamin E, echinacea and ivy extracts stimulate collagen production, moisturize and improve the relief of the epidermis. The cream for dry skin is additionally enriched with pumpkin seed and corn oil. As well as glycerin and squalane.
- La Roche Posay Hyalu B5. This cream can be used both morning and evening. It contains vitamin B5 and two types of hyaluronate. This product moisturizes, softens and soothes the skin. After just a month of use, visible imperfections of the epidermis are eliminated, and its color improves.
Retinol cream during pregnancy
The question involuntarily arises: if retinoids practically do not penetrate into the body, then why did this “belief” come about that retinoids should not be used by pregnant women and those who plan to become parents?
In fact, retinoids are teratogenic, but when taken orally ! This fear gave rise to this statement, but it has nothing to do with external means. However, specialists around the world do not take responsibility for “experimenting” and prescribing external retinoids to pregnant women, so the recommendation is firmly established:
"Avoiding the use of retinoids during pregnancy."
Restoring the oval
Nothing affects the skin as negatively as hormonal aging. This process develops at high speed and covers all layers of the epidermis. The lipostructure becomes significantly thinner or disappears altogether. The sebaceous glands partially atrophy, the epidermis becomes drier and begins to sag in some places.
Pharmacy facial skin creams designed to correct hormonal aging are capable of resisting these changes. The most effective are the following:
- Vichy Neovadiol. This unique cream can increase skin density and reduce sagging in just a few days. It stimulates the natural production of lipids and collagen. Accelerates exfoliation and cell regeneration. Gradually, the skin of the face is renewed, and its contours become clearer.
- Lierac Arkeskin. This super-nourishing cream contains magnesium, calcium, proteins, urea and cytopearl. Pigment spots, after using the care product, become less noticeable. Wrinkles and deep creases are gradually smoothed out.
- Avene Serenage. This cream for mature skin increases its vitality and elasticity. It contains a unique fragmented hyaluronic acid and pretocopheryl.
Cream with what concentration of retinol to choose
Another study showed that for adequate penetration into the skin and metabolism into retinoic acid (it is this that has the necessary therapeutic effect), the threshold concentration of retinol should be at least 0.025% .
Different forms of retinol have different strengths, the approximate strength ratio of retinoids is: 1% Retinol = 0.1% Retinaldehyde = 0.02-0.05% Retinoic acid
Important: after application to the skin, retinoids continue to work for 72 hours.
DermaQuest uses a special transport system - KemSphers R8 - which allows: gradual release of Retinol and prevents the development of retinoic dermatitis.
Summary: the concentration of retinoids in the drug should be at least 0.025%, however, the use of significantly higher concentrations does not enhance the expected result and is not justified.
Collection of pharmacy skincare must-haves
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