Phytin peeling – features and stages of the procedure, reviews from specialists

Now phytic acid has become available not only for medical, but also for cosmetic needs. Thanks to phytin peeling, the fight against aging, damage and uneven skin pigmentation has reached a completely new level. Phytic acid is unique in that it is neither an ALPHA nor a BETTA acid. This is an independent product with unique properties, isolated from wheat seed cake. Phytic acid has a mild and deep exfoliating effect. In addition, phytic acid binds one- and two-valence metal ions, which trigger oxidative functions in biological systems, including those associated with inflammation and pigment formation.

This feature of phytic acid is associated with its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and lightening properties. Therefore, on the one hand, the use of this product helps prevent the appearance of age spots, and on the other hand, it effectively eliminates existing ones. Peels using phytic acid are carried out in a beauty salon by a doctor.

Phytin peeling is recommended for aging skin, fresh and old scars, hyperpigmentation, acne, as a preventive measure for aging.

A distinctive feature of phytic acid is that at 50% concentration and a fairly low pH of 1.2, it does not cause damage to the deep layers of the epidermis. This provides a quick effect without discomfort or skin irritation. The absence of burns, discomfort, redness and discomfort for the client with a quick, pronounced and multifaceted effect - these are the main advantages of phytic acid.

We use professional phytic peels RENEW, Israel.

Features of the procedure

The procedure is based on the use of phytic acid, which is obtained from wheat cake or rice bran for cosmetic preparations.

Initially, this method of skin rejuvenation became widespread in Hollywood - with its help, actors got rid of the unpleasant consequences of prolonged application of makeup on the face. Therefore, the second name of the procedure is Hollywood peeling.

Phytin peeling is a superficial type of treatment. Phytin molecules are quite large in size, due to which the substance penetrates only to the upper surface of the stratum corneum.

However, this property of the acid manifests itself only if its exposure time is no more than 15 minutes. Longer exposure may lead to undesirable effects.

Applying a solution with phytin to the skin leads to gentle exfoliation. As a result, dead epidermal cells are removed, skin respiration improves, and metabolic reactions are activated.

This effect not only rejuvenates the face, but also helps to cope with acne marks, rosacea, reduces oily shine, and prevents the formation of pimples.

Peeling with phytin is used when it is necessary to cope with stretch marks on the body, reduce the severity of scars, and remove fine wrinkles.

Phytin peeling also has a brightening effect on the skin. Under the influence of acid, the secretion of enzymes that enhance melamine synthesis slows down - pigment spots become less noticeable.

Hollywood peeling can be done at any time of the year. Recovery after the procedure occurs quickly. There are no painful sensations during the session, and there are few contraindications to this method of facial rejuvenation.

The essence of peeling

There have been no clear domestic studies on the effectiveness of phytin peeling. Cosmetologists can only rely on research from cosmetic companies (partially interested, of course). But in Asia and America, the effect of phytin on the skin was studied in detail in order to include it in industrial creams and serums.

Soongsil University in Seoul conducted a seven-week, placebo-controlled study proving the whitening properties of phytin starting at a dosage of 0.5%.

The ability of phytin to regulate sebum production in the pores has also been proven at the University of Seoul. A tonic with phytin 0.5% was used on patients with oily skin for 4 weeks. After the course, scientists recorded sebum production levels that are standard for those with normal skin.

Also, phytin peeling is a useful choice for those with porous skin with comedones. It gradually removes the hated oily sheen and prevents the formation of unaesthetic “blackheads”. They appear as a result of sebum oxidation upon contact with oxygen. Phytin, as a chelator and antioxidant, prevents oxidation and darkening of comedones.

Properties of phytic acid and its effect on the skin

In cosmetology, solutions containing from 20 to 50% phytic acid are mainly used. The remaining volume of the drug is filled with other types of acids or other substances that have a positive effect on the epidermis.

However, active exfoliation of the skin, improvement of its structure and functions during peeling occurs precisely due to phytin.

Its main properties, which are valued specifically in cosmetology, are:

• Antioxidant. The acid prevents early cell aging, protects the dermis from free radicals, adsorbs and removes toxins.
• Vascular strengthening. Under the influence of phytin, the walls of blood vessels become stronger and more elastic, which makes it possible to remove visible vascular mesh from the face.
• Whitening. The level of melanin drops gradually, which allows you to cope with even the most pronounced and long-standing hyperpigmentation spots in 6-7 sessions.
• Moisturizing and sebum regulating. After peeling, sebum (sebum) production improves in those with dry skin, while in those with oily skin, on the contrary, sebum production decreases.
• Lifting. Increases the elasticity and firmness of the skin, enhances the production of its own results. The most obvious results of tightening are observed in people over 40 years old, that is, phytin copes well with age-related sagging of the skin, making the oval of the face clearer.

Phytic acid works in several directions at once, which allows not only to cope with unsatisfactory defects, but also has a positive effect on the complexion, evens out its relief, and eliminates signs of photoaging.

Effect of acid on skin

In the beauty industry, phytin is traditionally used as a whitening agent. All acids have whitening properties, which are entirely due to their exfoliating effect. But phytin not only removes the layer of dead horn cells, but also participates in the processes of melanogenesis, blocking the key enzyme of melanin synthesis - tyrosinase.

Phytin is a common component of industrial cosmetics from Japan and Korea. In East Asia, the beauty cult of white skin reigns supreme, so lightening cosmetics are the flagship direction of most cosmetic companies. So far, phytin is found mainly in some lines of luxury brands: Hyosiah, Nuxe (Korea), Kiehl's, Guam, Chanel, Darphin.

Manufacturers of toothpastes have also taken note of the lightening properties of phytin. It is found in LOGONA children's oral care products, Melvita and Oral-B whitening toothpaste.

Interesting to know! Phytin is added to shampoos to stabilize pH in sulfate-free formulas. It is good for the scalp, gently exfoliates dead particles, prevents alkalization, and balances sebum secretion.

Advantages and disadvantages

Phytin peeling is becoming more popular year after year, and the main reason for this is its simplicity, painlessness and versatility.

In addition to this procedure:

• Doesn't require too much preparation.
• Lightens even clearly visible pigmented areas and, most importantly, prevents their reappearance.
• Has an anti-inflammatory effect, relieves the effects of acne.
• Activate the natural processes of regeneration and cell renewal, enhances the production of elastin and collagen.
• It is not contraindicated in conditions of high solar radiation activity, that is, it can be done in the summer.
• Suitable for cleansing faces with overly sensitive skin and signs of rosacea.
• Can be performed at any age.
• Compatible with a number of other cosmetic rejuvenation techniques.
• It does not require strict restrictions during the rehabilitation period, and recovery is much faster compared to other types of chemical peels.

Among the disadvantages, patients note a noticeable tingling of the skin after applying the solution.

You also need to understand that with the help of phytin peeling it will not be possible to remove rough scars or severe acne marks; to find out how best to do this, follow the link above.

This procedure will only help make them less noticeable.

You need to know that large-scale studies of phytic acid have not yet been conducted. Its safety at the time of application and positive effects on the skin have been proven, but there is no data on the long-term consequences of such peeling.

How does the procedure work?

Phytin peeling is a simple exfoliation option. But even such superficial intervention should be trusted only to a qualified master.

Phytin is well tolerated by skin of any type, but allergy tests are performed before the first procedure.

The simple process of applying and exposing the peel consists of the following steps:

1. Removing makeup, cleansing skin.
2. Preparing the skin with an acid toner or rolling mask.
3. Disinfection and degreasing.
4. Applying peeling with a cotton sponge.
5. Exposure up to 15 min. (small tolerable tingling is acceptable).
6. Rinse, apply moisturizer and sunscreen.

The maximum period of exposure to phytic acid is 15 minutes, after which the effect on keratinocytes and destruction of the horny “envelopes” begins.

Phytin peeling does not require neutralization, but if a combination cocktail with glycolic or lactic acid is used, you need to stop the reaction with a neutralizer.

Note! Phytic acid is poorly soluble in water and alcohols, but much better in other acids (mandelic, lactic, glycolic). It is necessary to carefully study the composition of the peeling product to prevent side effects associated with additional ingredients. AHA acids in the composition, even in minimal concentrations, require neutralization.

Contraindications

Phytin peeling cannot be performed if:

• Hypersensitivity, both to phytin itself and to other components included in the composition of the selected product.
• Pregnancy and during lactation. The toxic effects of phytin on the developing fetus have not been proven or disproven, so it is better not to risk the child’s health.
• Herpes, molluscum contagiosum, eczema, psoriasis. Acid can intensify the manifestations of dermatoses or contribute to the spread of infection.
• Violation of the integrity of the epidermis. Acid getting into wounds and scratches increases their inflammation, which can ultimately result in the formation of rough scars.
• Malignant neoplasms. Peeling can cause tumors to grow.
• Diabetes mellitus, severe diseases of the kidneys, liver, heart.

The cosmetologist should be warned about all chronic pathologies at the initial consultation. You should not hide them from the doctor, since ignoring contraindications leads to undesirable consequences and the appearance of defects on the face that will be difficult to cope with.

Indications and contraindications for use

Indications for the use of phytin peeling affect skin problems of women of all ages:

1. In adolescence, this is the fight against acne and post-acne, as well as reducing the production of sebum.
2. For young girls under 30 years old, this is the prevention of age-related changes, aimed at eliminating fine wrinkles and maintaining skin tone.
3. In anti-aging care, this means getting rid of pigmentation, wrinkles, and sagging skin.

In addition, phytic acid is recommended as the main peeling component for the following problems:

• Photoaging;
• Shallow scars and cicatrices;
• Cuperosis;
• Dehydration;
• Dull, tired skin.

This type of peeling can also be effective as a preparatory stage before procedures that affect the skin more deeply (microdermabrasion, laser cleansing, etc.).

But despite all the advantages and beneficial properties of phytic acid, it also has contraindications:

• Pregnancy and lactation;
• Allergic reaction;
• The presence of birthmarks, papillomas, warts and other neoplasms;
• Skin diseases (dermatitis, eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, etc.);
• Scratches and other skin injuries;
• Burns;
• High body temperature;
• Increased skin sensitivity;
• The presence of active inflammation on the face;
• Oncology;
• Problems with the thyroid gland.

Before the procedure, you must consult with your doctor in case of heart, kidney or pulmonary failure.

Types of phytin peeling products by composition

In exfoliating cosmetic preparations, phytic acid is the active substance.

But at the same time, it is also combined with other components, which allows you to choose a remedy depending on the main problem:

• Glycolic and tartaric acid reduce the signs of rosacea and prevent the reappearance of capillary mesh on the face.
• Lactic and mandelic acids have a pronounced rejuvenating effect.
• The maximum whitening effect is achieved by preparations in which phytic acid is combined with glycolic, retinoic, azelaic or resorcinol.
• Vitamins E and C in the composition enhance the regenerative abilities of the skin and enhance its protection.

The concentration of phytic acid can be from the very minimum to 60-70%. But such compositions can also be used at home, strictly adhering to all the steps of the procedure indicated in the instructions.

How much does the procedure cost in salons?

Phytic acid is an inexpensive reagent, but branded exfoliation products are quite expensive. This is explained by their relative uniqueness - only a few companies produce products with phytin.

One session costs from 2–5 thousand rubles, depending on the cosmetologist. You can agree on a “wholesale rate” if you order the entire course from one cosmetologist.

There are specialists who offer phytin peeling for 500–1000 rubles. It’s not a fact that these are ignoramuses and charlatans. simply cosmetologists who know how to dilute acids on their own and prepare proprietary mixtures using the same cheap ingredients. When choosing a cosmetologist, you need to evaluate his education, work experience, customer reviews, and the authority of the clinic.

Preparing for peeling

Before phytin peeling, skin preparation is required. It is carried out for 7-10 days, and for severe pigmentation - from 2 to 3 weeks.

Pre-peel preparation includes applying glycolic acid gels to the face daily. At the same time, you can use 15% mandelic acid.

The use of these products loosens the epidermis, which facilitates the penetration of phytic acid deep into the dermis and, accordingly, has a positive effect on the results of peeling.

What it is

Phytic peeling is a cosmetic procedure during which the facial skin is treated with a special chemical complex based on phytic acid. This compound is prepared from rice and wheat pomace. Thus, you can get rid of acne, age spots, reduce the number and depth of wrinkles.

Stages of the procedure

Phytin peeling takes on average about 40-50 minutes. The number of sessions per course is determined by the severity of the defect and the condition of the skin; there can be from 3 to 9. The interval between procedures is 7 days.

Peeling sequence:

1. Remnants of decorative cosmetics are removed from the skin, and the face is cleansed of impurities.
2. The skin is degreased. Then you need to wait until it dries completely - the interaction of the components of the exfoliating agent with wet skin can lead to undesirable consequences.
3. A solution with phytic acid in an amount of up to 2 ml is distributed evenly over the face and neck. It is best to use a thin brush.
4. After 5-15 minutes, the acid is removed from the face with plain water. At the first session, it is recommended to keep the composition for no more than 7 minutes, then this time gradually increases.
5. A special tonic gel is applied to the skin, followed by a cream with nourishing ingredients.
6. After 5-10 minutes, you need to wash your face again and reapply the tonic composition.

Mild hyperemia and slight swelling persist for 3-5 days. On the 3rd day, peeling of the skin is usually observed. Such reactions indicate the effectiveness of the peeling.

How the procedure is carried out (8 stages)

The phytin peeling technique is simple and safe, so it is often used at home.

Modern manufacturers of cosmetic products produce the product in a form convenient for use.

This allows you not only to save time on visits to salons, but also to reduce financial expenses.

A self-performed procedure will cost several times less than a session with a specialist.

To achieve the desired result and protect yourself from burns, you must strictly follow all the rules of the procedure. You can find them in the instructions included with the drug.

To prevent negative consequences, it is worth consulting with a cosmetologist about the condition of the skin.

Phytin peeling is often carried out according to the following scheme:

• removing impurities and makeup residues using cleansing foam, tonics, lotions that contain BHA and AHA acids;
• applying glycolate for no more than 10 minutes;
• distribution over the skin of a thin layer of a composition containing phytic acid (optimal concentration 20 - 50%);
• holding for 7 minutes, if the first procedure – 12 minutes;
• washing off the active composition with water;
• use of tonics;
• using a mask with soothing or regenerating properties;
• removing the mask.

The procedure is completed by applying a cream with a protective effect. On average, the duration of these manipulations is no more than 40 minutes.

There is no pain during the procedure. The person may feel a tingling sensation. This can be tolerated.

Plastic surgeon Adam Schaffner

To achieve a pronounced lasting result, you will need to repeat the procedures at intervals of 1 - 2 weeks for 30 - 60 days. The exact number of sessions is selected individually for each person based on skin characteristics.

If you have doubts about performing all the manipulations yourself, it is better to contact a professional cosmetologist. The price of phytin peeling in Moscow salons starts from 3 thousand rubles.

Complications

Severe adverse reactions after phytin peeling are extremely rare. They are mainly associated with hypersensitivity to the components of the drug or non-compliance with the instructions for use.

In most cases, patients complain of increasing erythema, that is, severe redness of the skin. An allergy is indicated by the appearance of a small rash, severe itching, and increasing burning sensation.

If the rules of asepsis are not observed, pustules may form. Dehydration of the dermis often occurs, that is, severe dehydration, expressed by increased dryness.

Careful care of the renewed epidermis helps to cope with most problems.

For allergic reactions, antihistamines are prescribed. If a herpes infection worsens, you will need to take antiviral drugs.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undeniable advantage of phytin peeling is its effectiveness against hyperpigmentation. Old spots on the skin are very difficult to remove even with medium peels. Phytin also acts on dead cells and on the synthesis of melatocytes.

But phytic acid acts only in the epidermis; it does not force large-scale regeneration and compaction of the basal layer, therefore it gives a mediocre rejuvenating effect.

Also, the severity of anti-acne properties in salicylic, retinoic, and azelaic acids is much higher.

Peeling results

A noticeable change in the skin for the better can be seen after the first phytin peeling session. The face becomes smoother, its dullness and oily shine disappear, areas of irritation and hyperemia become less visible.

Phytin peeling course:

1. Tightens enlarged pores.
2. Eliminates pigmentation, wrinkles, acne marks.
3. Allows you to make scars less noticeable.
4. Increases skin firmness and elasticity.
5. Prevents inflammatory reactions.

The result lasts for at least 6 months. Compliance with the rules of facial care, a healthy diet, and taking multivitamin complexes prolong the effect of the peeling. The procedure can be repeated several times, of course, if the cosmetologist does not see any harm to the body in this.

Indications for use

Like any cosmetic procedure, phytin peeling has its own list of indications. The list includes:

• problematic skin;
• enlarged pores;
• the presence of pigment spots;
• demodicosis beyond the acute stage;
• the appearance of fine or deeper wrinkles;
• keratoma growth;
• formation of stretch marks;
• less often – acne, post-acne.

In some situations, this technique becomes a preparatory step before laser resurfacing or microdermabrasion.

Skin care after the procedure

Skin cleansed of dead cells must be especially carefully cared for for at least one month. In the first few days, you should not touch your face often, especially rub it.

Wash at this time with warm, filtered or boiled water. Also, you cannot use decorative cosmetics for 3-5 days.

The basis of care is creams with moisturizing, photoprotective, nourishing and regenerating components. But first, they use forms that are light in texture, that is, gels, sprays, foams.

Then they switch to creams containing ceramides, panthenol, hyaluronate, phospholipids, shea butter, and shea butter.

Careful selection of cosmetic products and daily use will minimize the risk of scarring, hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation that may appear after peeling.

Also, before going outside, you should not forget to apply cream with a protective factor of at least SPF 30 to your face.

Opinion of cosmetologists

Experts have mixed, and sometimes lukewarm, opinions about phytic acid. The principle of action of this substance has not yet been studied by officially recognized scientific organizations. A cosmetologist cannot refer to a certified procedure protocol. It is easier for him to offer the client safer, but probably not as effective, alternatives.

Is it possible to do phytin peeling yourself?

Products for phytin peeling are commercially available. That is, anyone can buy them, but is it worth doing such exfoliation yourself?

The procedure does not require the use of special devices and does not affect the deep layers of the skin, so such peeling is not prohibited from being carried out at home.

However, it is imperative to strictly follow all stages of the session, do not hold phytic acid for more than 15 minutes, and after completing the procedure, apply a cream suitable for your skin type to your face.

It is advisable to make an appointment with a professional cosmetologist for the first session. This way you will be able to fully understand the procedure, and the specialist will give professional recommendations regarding its implementation and subsequent care.

Preparatory stage

A qualified cosmetologist will definitely prescribe preliminary care before the procedure. For example, wiping your face with a tonic with fruit acids.

As a last resort, before the procedure itself, you can make a rolling mask to remove dead cells from the surface.

It’s even better to choose an acid line for daily care, not only before a session in the office. Acids are a new era in the beauty world. Their benefits for oily and aging skin have been repeatedly proven. Today, every self-respecting brand has already released a series of products with AHA or BHA.

Phytin, like many other acids, is prohibited from being applied to the skin if there is any damage to the epithelium (pimples, wounds, cuts, insect bites, etc.).

If the patient is predisposed to relapses of herpes, it is necessary to take a course of Acyclovir before the procedure. Even after superficial peeling, the epidermis is damaged and local immunity in the treated area is reduced. And this provokes relapse and spread of the viral infection.

What procedures can it be combined with?

Exfoliating the skin with phytin in combination with other aesthetic techniques gives a more pronounced rejuvenating effect and allows you to cope with even the most severe skin defects:

• Combination with biorevitalization and mesotherapy. Biorevitalizant and agents used in mesotherapy increase the metabolic activity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, and peeling activates the division of these cells.
• Combination with botulinum toxin injection. For noticeably expressed wrinkles, Botox injections are first given, then peeling is carried out. This allows you to rejuvenate the skin even with severe age-related changes.
• Combination with fractional photothermolysis. Phytin peeling is done before photothermolysis in order to prepare the skin for the evaporation of water from the epidermis.

Hardware techniques:

Preparations containing phytic acid

Many manufacturers produce phytin-based cosmetics for peeling.

Usually the bottle contains 10-30 ml, this amount is quite enough for a course of skin cleansing.

• Peeling lotion Renew Renew (Israel). Available in two types. Phytic Acid Peeling solution contains only 50% phytic acid and is best suited to correct age-related changes. In addition to 50% phytic acid, Phytic Tartaric Acid also contains 20% tartaric acid. The combined effect of the two components makes it possible to achieve a pronounced antioxidant effect. Both products are suitable for rejuvenating skin of any type.
• GENTLE SHINE PEEL PLEYANA (Pleyana). This is a multifunctional peeling product consisting of phytic, glycolic, aminocaproic, and succinic acids. Pleyana is most suitable for whitening the skin, reducing inflammation, and normalizing the functioning of the sebaceous glands. It does not have an aggressive effect on the epidermis and at the same time activates natural tissue renewal.

• Lykoberon. Produced in Russia. This is a multi-acid peeling, which also contains natural plant components. Helps cope with acne, effectively cleanses pores, smoothes out fine wrinkles. Suitable for peeling any skin, regardless of its type.

• Onmacabim (Onmacabim). Produced in Israel. In addition to phytin, the complex includes salicylic and glycolic acids. Peeling with Onmakabim evens out the relief, lightens pigmented areas, activates the secretion of collagen fibers, and reduces the severity of acne.

• Glycolicpeel Whitening. Produced by the Russian company MedicControlPeel. The product is enriched with kojic acid, which effectively reduces the secretion of melanin. Glycolicpeel Whitening peeling does not require the application of sunscreen, even if the procedure is carried out in the summer.

• COMPLEX PEEL SOLUTION. It copes well with removing fresh and old scars, is suitable for treating acne, and strengthens sagging aging skin.

Express care:

Patient reviews

The majority of beauty salon clients who have tried the effects of phytin evaluate this peeling as a gentle, gentle exfoliation and respond positively to the procedure.

Peeling is well tolerated without pain or severe discomfort. There is some peeling on days 2-3, but it is usually insignificant.

Phytin peeling restores freshness to the face, helps to cope with pimples and blackheads, and somewhat lightens pigmented spots.

Many are also attracted by the fact that rejuvenation with phytin is possible for sensitive, rash-prone skin. After the session, the face does not feel tight, there is no feeling of dryness or burning.

One of the disadvantages is that the effect of such an influence depends on how accurately the cosmetologist’s recommendations are followed during the recovery period.

Other reviews.

Expert opinion

• Cosmetologist
• Surgeon

Anna Avaliani

practicing cosmetologist

Before making an appointment with a cosmetologist, it is important to understand in detail what phytin peeling is. If there is hypersensitivity to the ingredients, the following negative reactions are observed: intense peeling for 3 days, swelling that goes away within 5 hours, redness. An exacerbation of herpes, manifested in the form of skin rashes, is possible.

Aisha Baron

Reviews from cosmetologists

Phytin peeling is also loved by many professional cosmetologists. Unlike deep methods of exfoliation of the epidermis, this procedure practically does not give any side effects, is easily tolerated, and does not require strict restrictions after implementation.

The results are most pronounced when treating skin with acne and dermatomycosis in remission. After a course of peeling, the severity of pigmentation decreases and wrinkles become less noticeable.

However, many qualified cosmetologists warn that no scientific research has been conducted on the effect of phytin on the dermis.

From a medical point of view, phytic acid has anti-cancer properties, which has been proven through research.

But the long-term consequences of such exfoliation are unknown, so before choosing this rejuvenation technique, you need to evaluate all the pros and cons of the procedure.

Reviews

Let's read reviews from cosmetologists and people about phytin peeling.

OKSANA, 33 YEARS OLD:

“The Pleyana phytin peeling was a real discovery for me.
I decided to try it on the recommendation of a friend to eliminate post-acne. After a month of use, I noticed that my skin became much clearer, my pores were narrowed, and even wrinkles were smoothed out. I want to know how long the results will last.”

SOFIA, 40 YEARS OLD:

“My cosmetologist advised me to use peeling with phytic acid.
I performed the procedure in the salon, I was afraid that it would sting a lot, but in fact I didn’t feel any pain or discomfort. After procedures with other acids, I had to sit at home without leaving because of the severe redness of my face. There was nothing like that with this peeling. I recommend!"

Classification of peelings and main groups of acids.

All peels according to their mechanism of action can be divided into four directions:

• Mechanical: scrubs, gommage, dermabrasion, brushing.
• Physical: laser, photo, liquid nitrogen, ultrasound.
• Chemical: acidic, phenol.
• Natural: enzymes, herbs.

Based on the depth of penetration, peeling can be:

• Super-superficial - interacts only with the upper row of the stratum corneum. For example, a scrub. There is no rehabilitation period.
• Superficial – affects the entire stratum corneum. For example, peelings based on AHA acids. Rehabilitation 1 week or less.
• Median – covers horny, granular and spinous. It affects the protein structures of living epidermal cells, so peeling is accompanied by a “frost” effect. Rehabilitation 2 weeks.
• Deep – penetrates to the basement membrane, penetration to dermal structures is possible. The procedure may be accompanied by multiple pinpoint hemorrhages. The rehabilitation period can last a month or more.

For superficial and superficial-medium peeling the following acids are used: AHA acids 30-70%, BHA acids up to 25%, Jessner peeling, retinoic acid up to 5%, TCA up to 15%, ferulic acid 15%, pyruvic acid up to 40% , azelaic acid up to 20%.
For medium peeling, the following concentrations of acids will be required: salicylic acid 30%, TCA up to 35%, retinoic acid 5-10%, low concentrations of phenol.

Deep peeling involves the use of TCA in high concentrations of 35-50%, high percentages of phenol.

Today, there are three main groups of acids that are used for superficial and medium peels:

1. AHA acids - alpha hydroxy acids
2. BHA acids - beta hydroxy acids
3. PHA acids - polyhydroxy acids

AHA acids

Water-soluble acids are capable of binding water, and then, penetrating the skin, delivering it to the deep layers of the epidermis. Promote the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, thereby increasing the level of hyaluronic acid in the dermis and epidermis. They also work with inflammatory mediators, so they are effective in the initial stages of acne. Neutralization required. The most commonly used AHA acids:

1. Glycolic acid – has the smallest molecule, so it easily penetrates the epidermal barrier. It has a stimulating effect on the synthesis of type I collagen. Can be very annoying. It has a pronounced anti-age effect, suitable for thick, oily skin. Suppresses melanin formation by inhibiting tyrazinase activity. As a result, it is well suited for skin with pigmentation. It is synthesized from sugar cane or green grapes.
2. Lactic acid – has a medium molecule size. Mild keratolytic. Well moisturizes and brightens the skin. Ideal for sensitive and dry skin, as well as skin with pigmentation, since, like Glycolic acid, it inhibits the activity of tyrazinase. Part of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), which we talked about earlier.
3. Mandelic acid – has a large molecule. It is non-irritating, has antifungal, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, since the chemical structure of mandelic acid is similar to some antibiotics. In cosmetology, concentrations from 40% are used, in home care up to 20%. Works great with problematic sensitive skin, as well as skin prone to rosacea. The effect is similar to that of salicylic acid.

BHA acids

They are lipophilic, so they easily penetrate sebum and work in the pores. The original representative of this group is Salicylic acid. It is a powerful keratolytic that has a comedolytic effect and fights inflammation. Does not require neutralization. The most commonly used concentrations are 15% and 25%. In cosmetics you can find derivatives of salicylic acid: white willow bark extract (Willow bark extract, salix alba) or betaine salicylate. It is necessary to remember the toxicity of salicylic acid. It is not recommended for use on large areas of the skin surface. Salicylic acid is also contraindicated in patients who have an allergic reaction to aspirin.

PHA acids

Carboxylic acids work on the principle of AHA acids, but are softer analogues with more pronounced moisture-retaining and antioxidant properties. Prescribed for patients with hypersensitive skin. Usually work in combination with other acids. The action of PHA acids is aimed at restoring hydration and improving skin tone. Representatives of PHA acids: Lactobionic acid, Gluconolactone.

Pyruvic, azelaic, ferulic, phytic, kojic, trichloroacetic and retinoic acids.

In addition to AHA, BHA and PHA acids, other acids are also used that are not included in the chemical structure of these groups. Let's look at the most commonly used of them.

Pyruvic acid

A ketoacid with a high degree of fat solubility. As a result, the acid has great penetrating ability, therefore it is used to treat acne, seborrhea, and hyperpigmentation. When interacting with the skin, it partially undergoes hydrolysis and turns into lactic acid. Neutralization is recommended. In cosmetology, the standard concentration of pyruvic acid used is 40%.

Azelaic acid

It is a carboxylic acid. Azelaic acid slows down the formation of keratinocytes, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and blocks melanin synthesis. Regulates disrupted keratinization processes in the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands, thereby cleansing the gland ducts. Contained in small quantities in the human body, synthesized during lipid metabolism. Used to treat acne, seborrhea and pigmentation. In peeling compositions it is found in a concentration of 15-20%.

Ferulic acid

Representative of hydroxycinnamic acids. It is a powerful antioxidant and stabilizer of Vitamin C. Ferulic acid is also known for its ability to neutralize free radicals already formed as a result of UV radiation. In addition, the acid prevents the formation of free radicals in the body. Ferulic acid has protective and healing properties, can block excess melanin synthesis and reduce the risk of hyperpigmentation. According to research, ferulic acid also has a pro-apoptotic effect in skin cancer cells. The standard acid concentration for chemical peeling is 12-15%. A distinctive feature of ferul peeling is the appearance of a light white mask. Neutralization is not required. Thus, ferulic acid is a unique substance that shows positive results in the fight against problems such as photoaging, melasma, chloasma and acne.

Phytic acid

In fact, it is an ester of the cyclic hexahydric polyalcohol myo-inositol and six orthophosphoric acid residues. Due to its molecular weight, phytic acid does not enter the middle epidermis, but works on the surface, exfoliating the stratum corneum. The acid also has pronounced brightening and anti-inflammatory properties, therefore it is effective in the treatment of acne and hyperpigmentation. By exfoliating the upper layer of the epidermis, phytic acid stimulates the synthesis of elastin and collagen, which helps improve skin turgor. Phytic acid works at lower pH at high concentrations. Side effects are extremely rare when using phytic acid, so phytic acid peels provide more interesting results from the procedure compared to AHA acids, which can cause sensitizing effects, irritation and significant redness.

Kojic acid

Hydroxyl derivative of γ-pyrone, obtained from various types of mushrooms. The main function of the acid is skin whitening, due to the substance’s ability to inhibit the enzyme tyrazinase, which is involved in melanogenesis. The effectiveness of the acid can be enhanced by combining it with other brightening components: vitamin C, arbutin, glycolic and lactic acids. Kojic acid is also used to lighten skin if you are intolerant to hydroquinone. Typically used in combination with other acids.

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA)

Substance of the carboxyacid group. It is a halogenated analogue of acetic acid. TCA has pronounced keratolytic and stimulating effects. How deeply the acid penetrates the skin depends on the number of layers applied. Trichloroacetic acid is immediately neutralized as it moves through the layers of the skin, causing protein coagulation. TCA is perfect for correcting defects such as scars, post-acne, acne, wrinkles and other skin texture disorders. For exfoliating purposes, concentrations of 15 to 50% acid are used. Peeling concentrations greater than 25% can only be used in sterile conditions with the possibility of rehabilitation in a medical facility.

Retinoic Acid

Metabolite of vitamin A1. Retinoic acid is also known as the “Yellow” peel. It has unique properties, thanks to which it is popular in cosmetology and dermatology. Accelerates cell renewal processes, regulates the functioning of the sebaceous glands, fights acne, increases skin firmness and elasticity, normalizes melanin synthesis, increases the level of mitotic activity of basal keratinocytes, and activates the synthesis of components of the intercellular matrix of the dermis. To enhance exfoliation, it is used together with Dimexide solution. In cosmetology, peeling concentrations from 3% to 10% are used. Despite the large list of positive properties, retinoic peeling must be used with great caution. The acid can cause severe erythema, irritation and allergies.

Sources: https://www.martinex.ru/, https://theblueprint.ru/, https://cosgroup.com.ua/, https://skin.ru/, N.V. Chebotareva. Handbook for cosmetologist.

Prices and brands of peelings

Phytin peeling is produced by: Beauty SPA (Italy), Renew (Israel), CRC (USA), Skin Tech (Spain), MedicControlPeel (Tuscany Laboratory, Russia), SkinMedica (USA), Pleyana (Russia).
The cost of each phytin peeling procedure averages 2000 - 4000 rubles. Since about five sessions are recommended to obtain a lasting result, a full course of these peels will cost about 15,000 rubles.

Pre-peeling preparation will require the purchase of preparations containing glycolic and mandelic acids. Their price can reach 1500 rubles.

Post-peeling care can be carried out using traditional photoprotective, restoring and moisturizing creams, so it does not require the purchase of special preparations.

Thus, the total cost of a full course of phytin peels will average 16,500 rubles.

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Comments

• Maria | 2018-02-21 15:10:54 I have known about phytin peeling for a long time and have been using it in procedures on my clients. Last time I decided to update my products and tried the Pleyana brand. It is no worse than the one I worked at before. At the same time, I noticed that this remedy is much more effective. Skin tone is evened out faster, skin is renewed and more elastic.
• Zhanna |
  2018-01-22 12:04:22 Since December, I started using phytin peeling from Pleyana in my work. Clients are happy with the result, and I myself see a significant improvement in some of my regular clients. This drug is definitely a must have in the prof. set.
• Lena |
  2017-11-28 20:42:11 I completed the Pleyana phytin peeling course with a cosmetologist. I can say that it is quite effective - the pores have narrowed, the skin has become softer, pigment spots remaining from pregnancy have become less noticeable. It’s nice that the drug works painlessly.

Properties

The most powerful antioxidant of natural origin prevents the appearance of signs of aging. Due to its properties, the component stops the oxidative degradation of lipids and prevents the formation of hydroxyl radicals. Phytic acid can also inhibit xanthine oxidation. The second property is whitening. Deactivation of tyrosinase, an enzyme whose excess is characterized by hyperpigmentation, by phytic acid occurs differently than in the classic version. Professional dermatological products often enhance the effect of acid due to the plant ericolin, which also blocks tyrosinase. Phytic acid is safe and can replace vitamin Q.

Phytic acid is a chelator that forms complex compounds. In terms of its capabilities, it is superior to tetrabasic carboxylic acid and has advantages in relation to complexone-III. In a number of countries, complexone-III is banned due to the fact that it is synthesized by combining highly toxic substances that are extremely hazardous to health. Its safe alternative is phytic acid, which is actively used in various fields, for example, the food industry and the cosmetics industry. Phytic acid has specific effects, and therefore its use does not cause concern: the removal of bound metal complexes from the body occurs bypassing the kidneys, through the gastrointestinal tract.

Recovery period

The cosmetic procedure is well tolerated and does not require long-term rehabilitation.

Immediately after phytin peeling, the following adverse reactions may occur:

• facial redness;
• the appearance of a feeling of peeling;
• swelling of the skin near the eyes;
• the appearance of a feeling of dryness.

After this, you can use products that contain argan oil or panthenol. If a feeling of tightness or dryness occurs, use caring cosmetics made on the basis of:

• aloe;
• mandelic acid;
• calendula;
• snail mucin;
• lactic acid.

Post-peeling skin care

To achieve an excellent result, it is recommended to organize post-peeling care, which includes the use of photoprotective, restorative and moisturizing creams for at least a month.

This will ensure normal regeneration of the skin and accelerate epithelization. At the very beginning of the rehabilitation period, special preparations should be used in the form of liquids, gels or foams, which are easy to apply, absorb well, and do not require rubbing. Approximately on the second day, when peeling appears, creams should be preferred.

Actively moisturizing the skin in the post-peeling period will not only eliminate unpleasant subjective sensations such as a feeling of tightness and dryness of the skin, but also ensure accelerated epithelization, and also reduce the risk of scarring. In this case, it is recommended to use products with hyaluronic acid, which has a pronounced hydrating effect. With the help of hyaluronic acid, a polymer network is formed on the skin, which helps capture water molecules and ensure the normal migration of regenerating cells.

Actions related to the restoration of the epidermal barrier will simultaneously reduce transepidermal water loss by the skin. Preparations containing a sufficient amount of phospholipids, shea butter, as well as ceramides and natural waxes will help with this.

Products containing a complex of regenerating substances such as retinol, placenta, and panthenol will help speed up the post-peeling restoration of the skin.

Cosmetic preparations containing antioxidants such as bioflavonoids, selenium, and tocopherol will help to significantly reduce the severity of post-peeling inflammatory reactions and the risk of developing hyperpigmentation.

In the post-peeling period, it is very important to prevent the development of herpetic exacerbation. For these purposes, patients who experience more than two such exacerbations per year are recommended to undergo specific therapy using Valtrex or Acyclovir.