Facial acids - which ones are used.
Acids for facial skin are time-tested helpers. Their effects have been confirmed and there is no reason to doubt the expected results. All that remains is to understand which acids need to be used, in what concentration and to eliminate which problems. Almost all brands use acids as active components of skincare products. For example, in Renophase cosmetics, the use of acids is defined as a guiding idea.
ANA, BHA, and PHA acids are used in cosmetics. We will not go into chemistry, especially since what is accepted in the established understanding and notation does not correspond to the classification of chemists.
For us,
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are fruit acids, the most common being glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric, and citric.
BHA (beta hydroxy acid), a salicylic acid, is found in birch and willow bark. For the first time, it was obtained from willow.
PHA (polyhydroxy acids) is the result of research aimed at reducing the degree of irritation of acids to the skin. RHA is used for sensitive, dry and aging skin. The most common are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
Sun protection
In general, acids can be used all year round, since solar radiation is almost the same throughout the year. These are UVA rays that cause photoaging - wrinkles, age spots, sagging skin.
Therefore, if you use acids, then please use Sanskrin! Every day, as acids increase skin sensitivity to the sun.
In winter, in principle, a sunscreen with SPF15-20 will be enough.
In summer, it is better not to use aggressive acidic products and use strong protection - spf30 pa++++ or spf50 pa++++.
Before traveling to the sea, stop using acids several weeks in advance.
Here, read more about whether acids can be used in summer.
ANA, BHA, PHA - each skin type has its own acid.
Acids can be divided into two groups, which determine their use, depending on skin type. Skin type and age are the main criteria to consider when choosing cosmetics. For more details, read – Professional facial care cosmetics – recommendations for home use.
The division criterion is solubility in water or fat. AHA and PHA are water soluble. BHA, or rather the only (or almost the only) one used in cosmetics – salicylic acid – is fat-soluble.
This is not the only difference. In terms of the exfoliation mechanism, salicylic acid destroys the structure of proteins (corneodesmosomes, what holds the horny scales together), but AHA and PHA do not destroy the structure of proteins; for exfoliation, they change the activity of enzymes in the stratum corneum.
You can read more about ANAs and PHAs in the article – Cosmetics with acids.
Due to its lipid solubility, salicylic acid interacts with the physiological lipids of our skin. Therefore, it penetrates and acts inside the pores. It is mainly used to care for oily and problematic skin.
AHA and PHA acids are water-soluble and are used to care for dry and normal skin.
PHA is used in the care of sensitive skin.
Cosmetics with RHA.
Newskin Rich Cream, rejuvenating, anti-aging, Newskin Creme Riche Renophase - moisturizing, antioxidant cream, improves the lipid barrier.
Moisturizing cream Newskin Hydra+ Creme Hydra+ Renophase - renews the epidermis, reduces wrinkles.
Cosmetics with AHA.
Restoring serum with fruit acids Kosmoteros.
Milk-oil with fruit acids and Arcadia black wood mushroom extract.
Cream mask with fruit acids Ivory Arcadia.
This is interesting. We are used to the fact that the best care for oily skin can be provided by salicylic acid, but the Renophase cosmetics brand has reason to use glycolic acid in its care - Renewpure Emulsion Renophase.
Also, the mask has an interesting combination of components, where phytoestrogens are used together with glycolic acid, which improve the sensitivity of cell receptors to their own estrogens, which is important when hormonal levels change. Renewpeel Masque Renophase.
Cosmetics with salicylic acid.
Anti-acne tonic lotion with BHA Revolution studio, Peeling-gommage with BHA Revolution studio.
Let's summarize.
Oily, problem skin – salicylic acid.
Normal, dry skin – AHA.
Sensitive skin - RHA.
My experience with acids
I expected a lot from using acids. Did I achieve what I wanted?
Positive result from acids:
- improvement in complexion, but on my skin vitamin C serums give a more pronounced effect,
- smoothing of the skin texture - the skin very quickly becomes smoother, small tubercles disappear,
- increasing skin elasticity,
- removal of dark acne spots. Acne spots go away very quickly,
What I never expected from acids:
- facial wrinkles remained with me. I already have such good lines on my forehead, but they haven’t changed in any way, although I used the entire arsenal of acids
- scars don't disappear. I have several scars and they are all still in place.
- the blackheads have not evaporated - this is my sore point
- pores have not decreased. After acid toners and masks, pores look smaller and cleaner, but for a short time
Acids for the face - specificity of impact.
All acids exfoliate. This is used for peeling.
Read more about peelings.
What is facial peeling?
Acid peeling for face.
Enzyme peeling for face.
In addition to the exfoliation effect common to all, each acid has its own specific effects. Specific features are effects different from exfoliation.
Hydration.
Anti-inflammatory effect.
Remodeling action.
They depend on the chemical characteristics of the particular acid, its concentration and the condition of the skin. Therefore, it is necessary to understand when acids exfoliate and when they have other specific effects.
Why are acids needed?
Now all the bloggers are just shouting about acids on every corner (I’m no exception), so the question has arisen - why are acids needed at all? What do they give?
We all understand that acids exfoliate dead cells and thereby renew the skin. Scrubs also exfoliate the skin, but they are much more traumatic for the skin, which is not good, as they can lead to scars.
Do you need to exfoliate your skin and why is it necessary?
Regular exfoliation of the skin promotes skin renewal, helps get rid of dull skin, clogged pores, peeling and uneven skin. Exfoliation also improves the absorption and effectiveness of the cosmetics you apply to your face.
Fruit acids (ANA), features of use.
As a rule, at home, fruit (AHA) acids are used for peeling; for them you need to remember only one number - 4. What does it mean. For AHAs, their effectiveness as exfoliants is primarily determined by their pH value.
pH determines the level of acidity; it is the inverse decimal logarithm of the concentration of hydrogen ions. If the medium (substance) has a pH>7, then it is an alkali, if the pH<7 is an acid. Our skin has a pH of 5.5 (plus/minus, depending on the features), which corresponds to an acidic environment.
Now let's return to number 4. If the pH value of the product is greater than 4, then it stops exfoliating, but at the same time it can have a specific effect, for example, moisturize.
Depending on the concentration of AHA and pH, the drugs vary in the degree of effect on the skin.
pH 1-2, AHA concentration 50-70% - preparations for medium peeling, used in the salon.
pH 2-3, concentration - 20-30% - preparations for surface peeling.
pH 4-5, concentration – 5-10% - cosmetic preparations without exfoliating effect, can be used for pre-peeling preparation and after peeling.
In general, where the pH is 4 or lower, fruit acids exfoliate. With a pH greater than 3 and a concentration of up to 20%, these products can be used independently in home care. These are either home peelings, or cosmetics with exfoliating action, or with a specific effect (for example, moisturizing). You can read more about the specific actions of AHAs in the previously mentioned article - Cosmetics with acids.
Read also
Salicylic acid for problem skin
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Salicylic acid (BHA), features of use.
It has antimicrobial, antifungal properties, opens comedones, and facilitates the release of sebum from the sebaceous glands.
Unlike AHAs, the effectiveness of salicylic acid is determined not by the pH value, but by its concentration.
In peeling preparations the concentration is 15-20%.
In other cosmetics, the concentration is up to 2%.
Salicylic acid is effective at lower concentrations compared to AHAs. This also applies to peelings and other cosmetics.
So, we have analyzed for what type of skin AHA, BHA and PHA acids are used, and also understood what concentration and pH value should be for a particular effect.
My wish list of acids
DR DENNIS GROSS SKINCARE ALPHA BETA UNIVERSAL DAILY PEEL (PACK OF 30)
This is a legendary product with AHA acids. You should definitely try it.
NIP+FAB GLYCOLIC FIX NIGHT EXTREME SUPERSIZE PADS (WORTH £24.92)
I managed to try these pads with glycolic and salicylic acid, they were supposed to be extra-strong, against inflammation and so on. In fact, I didn’t see anything from them.
PAULA'S CHOICE SKIN PERFECTING 2% BHA LIQUID EXFOLIANT (118ML)
Legendary acne treatment with salicylic acid. Everyone praises it very much and of course I really want to try it.
PAULA'S CHOICE RESIST SKIN TRANSFORMING MULTI-CORRECTION TREATMENT WITH AZELAIC ACID + BHA (30ML)
Acne remedy contains azelaic and salicylic acids!
Omorovicza Midnight Radiance Mask is a night exfoliating and moisturizing facial mask with salicylic acid, copper gluconate and hyaluronic acid.
And from the silver series I want two products:
- Omorovicza Silver Skin Tonic
- light face cream Omorovicza Silver Skin Lotion
Both products contain niacinamide, colloidal silver and salicylic acid. The cream also contains zinc and hyaluronic acid. The products should be ideal for problem skin, designed to fight inflammation and cleanse the skin.
DeVita, Natural Skin Care, Acne Swabs, 2 oz (60 g)
Tampons for acne
