Why retinol?
Retinoids are a group of drugs based on vitamin A, represented by retinol and its derivatives.
The Global Alliance of Dermatologists and Cosmetologists, based on many years of research, clinical observations and treatment of patients with problem skin, has come to the conclusion that
Retinoids are the N1 substance in acne therapy.
Russian experts classify retinoids as first-line drugs for the treatment of problem skin with acne.
The term “1st line” means that they are recognized as the most effective and it is worth starting therapy with their prescription.
One of the main goals of acne treatment is not just to stop the process and get rid of acne, it is important to prevent the appearance of scarring. After all, getting rid of scars is almost impossible!
For a detailed understanding of the reasons for which the Global Alliance of Dermatologists and Cosmetologists made this conclusion, let’s begin the analysis by listing the points where retinol works for acne.
Help, please, with comedones and oily skin!
Elkavna 14 September 2022, 20:36
It’s a difficult situation (in a good way, you should see a specialist. But if for some reason it’s not possible, then I personally recommend: 1. Two-level cleansing (hydrophilic oil + washbasin). 2. Go for cleaning - remove what’s already on the surface 3. Retinol works well with oily skin and acne. 4. Products with mandelic acid/salicylic/azelaic acid. Mandelic and salicylic acid dissolve “fat” and work inside the pores, roughly speaking, clean them. Azelaic acid relieves inflammation well and works with " hormonal acne "(I don’t remember the exact mechanism, but it acts as a blocker for the development of acne). All three work with oily skin. It is better not to combine it with retinol. 7. Niacinamide will also help - it will relieve inflammation, help with post-acne and oiliness.
My skin is a little different: 30 years old, sensitive combination, very thin and I have closed comedones - just flat white dots (it’s clear that there is something in the pores, the relief is slightly uneven in the light) and if you press down, the core/liquid contents come out . I work as best I can, but the difficulty is in the thinness of the skin - a little bit of dryness/tightness/burning and active acne.
Here is my list of products that help me avoid active inflammation: 1. Avene Hydra Creme Lavante (almost does not dry out my skin, it will be ideal for oily skin) 2. Holika Hydrophilic Soda (does not clog pores, removes any makeup) 3. Bielenda Professional Microbiome Pro Care tonic (soothes the skin, relieves tightness, moisturizes) 4. Bielenda Professional SupremeLab Microbiotic Moisturizing & Soothing Cream (soothing cream, perhaps it will be too much for oily skin, better for dry skin, or when the oil content is normalized. In the meantime, you can look at the pharmacies for a moisturizing gel -cream) 5.Avene TriAcneal Expert Soin-Emulsion (quite a hard retinol, not for beginners, I’ve run out, I’m considering Pharmaceris T Pure Retinol 0.3% as a replacement, I hope it’s softer and more effective) 6.Pharmaceris T Sebo-Almond-Peel Exfolitating Night Cream (nuclear cream with 10% mandelic acid, there is another 5%, but I took the killer one). I've been using it for a week - every morning I wake up and see the contents of my pores coming to the surface. I’m ok, I took it for cleaning, some may not be ok with waking up every morning with new pimples. I'm waiting for the skin to clear up and just maintain the result. 7. Bielenda Professional SupremeLab with 10% azelaic acid (more of a cream than a serum, works great, and is less drying than pharmacy Aknestop cream, does not clump, can be applied to spots, can be applied to the entire face) 8. SVR Sebiaclear Cream SPF 50 Mattifying Anti-Blemishes (my favorite cream every morning for 3 years. It mattifies, does not dry out, does not clog, works on acne and extinguishes inflammation due to niacinamide. But you need to learn how to apply it, because it can slide off). 9. New Line mask for oily problem skin (mask in powder form) - perfectly extinguishes inflammation, cleanses pores (tightens comedones to the surface and makes it easier to remove), after cleansing/under darsonval/under massage it also works well.
I still have acid tonics and masks, but the acids are the same as those indicated above, if necessary, I’ll announce the names)
Answer
How does retinol work for acne?
Points of application of retinol and its derivatives for acne:
FOLLICULAR HYPERKERATOSIS
Retinoids, like AHA acids, are able to break the bonds between keratinocytes, stimulating their exfoliation, inhibit the excessive proliferation of the ductal epithelium, thereby cleanse the pores on the face and eliminate their blockage.
CLOSED COMEDONS
Through the hair follicle, retinoids are able to penetrate right up to the ducts of the sebaceous glands, where they also stimulate exfoliation and elimination of accumulated sebum, which stretches the sebaceous glands, turning them into retention cysts.
Result : a large number of dead cells do not accumulate in the ducts and their removal to the outside improves, which removes the blockage of the duct - sebum accumulated in the gland comes to the surface of the skin.
INFLAMMATION
Retinoids are antioxidants that further reduce the production of proinflammatory cytokines and other inflammatory factors (eg, IL-1β, TNF-α, and nitric oxide NO).
Important : inflammation is recognized as a key factor provoking the severity of the acne process, and, therefore, the main starting point for acne therapy.
PATIENT
Retinoids indirectly inhibit the proliferation of P. acne bacteria, preventing the formation of antibiotic resistance in bacteria that form skin microbiologists.
IMMUNE FUNCTION OF THE SKIN
Retinoids block important inflammatory pathways such as AP-1, as well as leukocyte migration and toll-like receptors. In addition, retinoic acid (one of the forms of retinol, formed inside the skin during the transformation of retinol) affects Langerhans cells - skin macrophages, increasing their readiness for phagocytosis and migration to the site of inflammation.
PREVENTION OF POST-ACNE
According to clinical observations, early use of retinoids to correct acne minimizes the risk of scarring.
Also, topical retinoids reduce the risk and clinical manifestation of post-acne hyperpigmentation. The higher the dose of topical retinoids, the greater the preventive effect.
Say NO! comedones: care for problem skin
Iontophoresis is a special procedure by which the skin is exposed to pulses of low-voltage galvanic current. Under the influence of current, the properties of medicinal compounds are enhanced and penetrate into the deep layers of the epidermis, affecting comedones from the inside. An effective type of iontophoresis is the disincrustation procedure. This method allows you to quickly, deeply and atraumatically cleanse the skin of impurities, sebaceous plugs and black plugs, thereby normalizing the functioning of the sebaceous glands. Its action is to influence the skin with galvanic current, which, as with iontophoresis, enhances the effect of the compositions.
perform disincrustation at home. To do this, you should pay attention to the multifunctional facial skin device Bio Sonic 1007 from the famous manufacturer Gezatone. With its help, you can perform many useful procedures without leaving your home: ultrasound peeling, micromassage, phonophoresis, disincrustation, ionic galvanic cleansing, blue current chromotherapy and microcurrent therapy. As a result of using the device, the skin becomes noticeably cleaner, tighter, youthful, smooth, beautiful and radiant. Ideal in one word.
To enhance the effect of the device, you should use a special lotion for ultrasonic facial cleansing “Desincrustant” from the Beauty Style brand. Thanks to its active ingredients, the product helps to better cleanse the skin of sebum and comedones, relieves inflammation, restores skin tone, tightens pores, removes impurities and toxins, and prevents inflammation and irritation.
Device for ultrasonic cleaning and lifting of facial skin Bio Sonic 1007, Gezatone
The most advanced device for ultrasonic skin cleansing...
More details
Lotion for ultrasonic facial cleansing “Desincrustant”, Beauty Style, 250 ml
The active drug prepares the skin for procedures...
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Chromotherapy is an innovative technique that affects the skin with rays of different colors. Depending on the problem, the cosmetologist selects a specific light and its intensity. Chromotherapy improves the supply of oxygen to tissues, improves local immunity, enhances metabolism, stimulates regeneration processes and cleanses the skin of various inflammations.
Darsonvalization is an effective method of using the Darsonval apparatus, which began to be effectively used to treat various diseases at the end of the 19th century. Much time has passed since that moment, Darsonval’s devices have become more modern and multifunctional. The effect on the skin occurs due to high-frequency pulsed current. With the help of darsonvalization, you can perfectly solve the problem of oily skin, enlarged pores, comedones, and acne. The current relieves inflammation, reduces the number of rashes and improves skin condition.
What retinoids to use for acne
Having understood how retinol works for acne, the question arises: what form of retinol is best to use to treat acne?
To answer this question, you need to understand:
- When treating acne, the goal is not to activate fibroblasts and basal keratinocytes to stimulate cellular renewal and synthesis of the dermal matrix.
- With acne, skin barriers are often compromised. Therefore, the requirement for the selected Retinoid is to minimize aggression and eliminate irritating effects that could provoke the client’s desire to refuse therapy.
Irritation from retinol
Conclusion
At the beginning of therapy, give preference to atraumatic forms of Retinoids without affecting RAR receptors (fibroblasts and basal keratinocytes). Pure retinol and retinol acetate are excluded from acne therapy, especially in the initial stages of treatment.
What are comedones?
Comedones are a form of acne that occurs as a result of blockage at the mouth of the pilosebaceous follicle. In the comedonal form of acne, there is no inflammation. After resolution of such elements, scars and spots of hyperpigmentation do not remain, but this does not mean that they can be treated with disdain.31
Comedones can be open or closed. The first ones are also called black dots. They occur when pores become clogged with cosmetic residues, dust particles, and sebum. The top of such a “plug” oxidizes, acquiring a characteristic black tint. 31
Closed comedones are small white rashes31. Many girls think that the easiest way to get rid of it is by squeezing it out. But such manipulations can lead to the formation of scars, worsening of the rash, and the appearance of inflammatory elements.
Why do comedones appear?
There are several causes of comedonal rash48,49:
- Improper skin care. Too frequent and aggressive cleansing or neglecting to wash and remove makeup can provoke rashes. Acne may occur due to the use of cosmetics with comedogenic ingredients.
- Mechanical impact. This includes rubbing with clothing, hand pressing on the chin, frequent touching of the face, and self-mechanical removal of comedones.
- Poor nutrition. It has been proven that acne can be triggered by frequent consumption of milk and dairy products. Also “dangerous” are fatty, spicy foods, foods with a high glycemic index, etc.
- Taking certain medications. Boron, iodine, anabolic steroids can cause acne.
Comedones can form against the background of other diseases - endocrine disorders, gastrointestinal diseases, depression31.
